60 new york | march 2–15, 2020
Eating HistoryThe new Gage & Tollner menu is full
of old classics (and a touch of uni).PARKER
HOUSE ROLLS
“We felt strongly about
putting Parker House
rolls on the menu,”
says Kim. “Edna Lewis
was big on dinner
rolls.”PORK POTPIE
Never mind turkey.
Forget about chicken.
This potpie is filled
with pork—shoulder
and belly—and crowned
with a laminated pâte
brisée crust.BLOOD-ORANGE TART
Seasonal-fruit desserts
like this will come and go.
Winter means citrus, layered
with frangipane and
garnished with vanilla ice
cream for a Creamsicle effect.food / openingsCHEESECAKE
With Junior’s practically
around the corner, pastry chef
Caroline Schiff distinguishes her
version with chèvre in place of
cream cheese, a streusel crust,
and a seasonal garnish (candied
Meyer lemon for now).BAKED ALASKA
The whimsical shape of Schiff ’s
baked Alaska was inspired
by her own impressively
gravity-defying hair; inside the
meringue lie layers of
housemade vanilla, chocolate,
and fresh-mint ice cream.DEVILS & ANGELS ON
HORSEBACK
Not one but two delicious
things (almond-stuffed
dates and sea scallops)
get wrapped in
house-smoked, molasses-
glazed bacon.CREAMED SPINACH
The Ur-steakhouse
side, larded with soubise
and béchamel and
seasoned with nutmeg and
preserved lemon.SHE-CRAB SOUP
Edna Lewis made
it famous; Kim and
Shepard’s version also
incorporates crab roe
and sherry.SHRIMP
SCAMPI
Kim’s nod to the restaurant’s
last owner, Joe Chirico,
who added an Italian-
American flair to the menu.
The butter-broiled shrimp
come with ricotta gnudi,
not linguine.BONE-IN RIB EYE
The steak is dry-aged,
butchered in house, and
priced per ounce; you can
get it with salsa verde
or garlic confit and a side of
scalloped potatoes.SEA SCALLOPS
These sea scallops may not
be wrapped in bacon,
but they’re bathed in butter,
plopped on sunchoke
purée, and surrounded by
a small army of uni.