046 Cycle Touring Brazil - Part 2

(Leana) #1

(^118) Carbo Branco Beach – Mamanguape - 83 km

Our day was one of mixed emotions. We departed Carbo Branco, intending to bike to
Natal. Twenty kilometres later, our path reached a river where a barge ferried people
across. Once on the opposite side, and after about 10 kilometres, our cobblestoned
road came to an abrupt halt without any sign of the route indicated on the map.
With no other option, we headed to the main road. At least the way was scenic, past
vast palm tree plantations and a tiny shop, where the owner fixed fishing nets and
sold coconut juice. Being sweltering, I finished my juice in one large gulp. On
departing, the owner wanted no money. He pointed us to a shortcut, which turned
out to be a sandy track.

Still, our alternative route took 30 kilometres off the day’s distance. Although slow
going, it remained better than cycling an additional 30 kilometres. The road ran
through sugarcane fields, and the flies were out in full force, enough to annoy the
best-natured person. Eventually, I hauled out and donned the mosquito/fly head-
net, making life more bearable.
Once on the main road, we were delighted to find a perfect road revealing a wide
shoulder and regretted not taking it in the first place. Ten kilometres from our
destination, and thinking we were making good time, Amanda had a flat tyre. The
fixing process also revealed a bent derailleur, no wonder she’d had difficulty
changing gears. In fact, the whole derailleur was loose as the screw holding it to the
frame was missing. At least we made it to our destination, during daylight.

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