Barra Nova – Sao Mateus – 40 km ^45
The staff wasn’t wrong about the sandy path and now and again I heard an
anxious, “Oh shit” behind me. The “twenty-five kilometres” was simply to the
subsequent settlement. At least from there, a tarmac road ran to Sao Mateus where
we discovered a hotel offering telephone and internet facilities. The following day,
Amanda had more “work” to do, and we stayed in Sao Mateus, where hopefully, she
could sort out all the card requirements.
Sao Mateus – Itabata – 90 km
Having done all in our power to have the card sent, we departed Sao Mateus on a
breezy, cloudy morning, heading north on the BR101. On crossing into the state of
Bahia, the road deteriorated. The roomy shoulder we enjoyed until then vanished,
and the many trucks made cycling downright dangerous.
Then, mercifully, a pousada rolled into view. Amanda did well as she stuck it out,
put her head down and did what was required. The lady from the guesthouse
confirmed that a dirt track indeed existed beside the ocean.
Itabata – Caravelas – 65 km
Following our landlady’s direction, it became an eventful day—a dirt road headed
towards the coast past cattle ranches and tiny hamlets. Amanda spotted a man on
a donkey and muttered it being a more suitable means of transport for her.