046 Cycle Touring Brazil - Part 2

(Leana) #1

(^84) Itacare – Camamu - 58 km

Nearing central Brazil, the weather became increasingly hazy, hot and humid, and
settlements became more remote, rural and traditional. Our route became hillier,
and after 15 kilometres and at a bus stop, Amanda stayed put.

Arrangements were made to meet in the next village, and I left her in the care of a
few schoolchildren and set off over countless hills. Finally, about five kilometres
before Camamu, while stopping at a viewpoint, I saw Amanda going past in a bus
and felt better knowing she was all right.
Camamu was a small fishing community surrounded by mangrove swamps, and it
was easy to find both the centre and Amanda, who opted for digs in the town
centre.
Camamu – Valenca - 71 km

Amanda decided to take the bus and we arranged to meet in Valenca, the next
most prominent place. The road ran through dense forests revealing tiny
settlements hidden behind palm trees and banana plants. The day offered all the
images one conjured up when thinking of central Brazil. Jungle-clad hillsides,
mangrove swamps and remote villages, where women did laundry in streams and
carried their wares in baskets on their heads.
Pedalling through these small settlements, people instantly stopped what they were
doing, spun around, and stared motionless, mouths agape. Dogs barked nervously
and kids ran for the safety of their homes.

I reached Valenca around midday, leaving plenty of time to investigate this tiny, but
bustling, fishing community offering a lively riverfront lined by food traders and
juice stands. En route to our accommodation, we unexpectedly got drenched by a
sudden downpour, but at least it wasn’t cold.

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