British Vogue - 04.2020

(Tina Sui) #1

There were a few false
starts. Hitting the Tranoï
trade show without a
business plan for one,
and switching production
at several factories. “It
was quite a sexist set-up,”
explains Luisa. “Cutie,
in our miniskirts. We
were quite naive. Now,
we dress in suits, like
men.” Five years in, they’ve earned the right to eat with the
factory owners. “Now, there is a true respect.”
They are currently working between Paris and Rome, which
is also home to Capucci Roma, the 1950s-era Italian couture
house they are reviving. “Roberto Capucci was really connected
with the soul of the woman, not only clothes,” enthuses Luisa,
who has spent hours poring over the company archives near
Trieste. “We have to translate his volume, his colour, his fabrics
for the modern woman – but keep his way of working in mind.”
The girls will be back in Paris in May to launch TL-180’s
shoe line, as well as a capsule collection of jewellery-adorned
bags with London-based label Alighieri. “Rome is a good
base, somewhere to focus. But we need Paris,” says Luisa.
They’re looking forward to hosting more friends, too.
“Everyone leaves something here,” says Tine. “Photographs,
ceramics, or a drawing from one of their children. That’s
LUISA WEARS TOP, TL-180. SKIRT, LUISA’S OWN. TINE WEARS TOP, TL-180. JEWELLERY, TINE’S OWNwhy it’s magical.” n


Above: Prelle fabric covers the folding
screen, once used in a production of
Ivanov, which Tine’s father designed.
From far left: a vitrine filled with birds,
bought at auction 20 years ago, hangs
in the library; childhood knick-knacks
and photographs dot the apartment

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