RICHARD MALONE
In 2014, womenswear designer
Richard Malone’s entire
Central Saint Martins graduate
collection was purchased by
luxury Irish department store
Brown Thomas. Since his
launch, Malone has been
committed to sustainable,
ethical, transparent supply
chains in every area of his
business. Crafted using
couture techniques, he limits
production of his much-
considered designs – which
have become highly coveted
by loyal collectors. Last
September, Malone announced
that future collections would
be numbered instead of tied to
the regular fashion calendar,
furthering his stance on the
importance of slow fashion. His
clothing is rendered in organic
and recycled materials using
natural dyes. Malone strives to
be a positive influence in his
practices, employing, for
example, a hand-weaving
community in India that
supports and funds education.GMBH
Serhat Isik and Benjamin
A Huseby – founders of Gmbh,
a mix of German, Middle
Eastern and Scandinavian
influences with sustainability
centre stage – met on a Berlin
dancefloor, and describe their
nightlife-meets-workwear
brand as a self-created family,
made up of the children of
immigrants, connected by the
German capital’s LGBTQIA+
techno scene. Of Turkish-
German descent, Isik formally
trained in fashion design,
while Huseby is a Pakistani-
Norwegian with a foundation
in fashion photography.
The pair have been using
deadstock since their first
collection in 2016 – when
they discovered the abundant
leftovers available at
discounted prices in high-
end factories. From trousers
with zip details and fitted
jersey, to futuristic tailoring,
inventive knits and utilitarian
jackets, Gmbh has become
known for its unique cutting
techniques and eco-
fabrications, such as leather
goods created from apple pulp.
Gmbh shows in Paris.04-20Woolmark-Prize-layout_2029306.indd 134 13/02/2020 08:47