STRONG SUITWhen it comes
to tailoring,
keep it shorts
and simple, says
Ellie PithersYou see... that’s the
surprise. I’m a girl.
But now I’m a boy too
and I can do anything
and anything and
anything.” So says
Catherine Bourne, the catty heiress in
Ernest Hemingway’s The Garden of Eden,
after a radically cropped haircut – though
she could easily have said it after pulling
on a pale grey Givenchy shorts suit.
The shorts suit in question sauntered
down the spring/summer 2020 runway
last September, to a soundtrack of
Princess Nokia: “That girl is a tomboy!”
Cut long on the leg, and equally lean in
the collarless jacket, it was inspired by
artistic director Clare Waight Keller’s
memories of her move from London
to New York in 1993, and the “raw,
boyish energy” that surrounded the self-
professed tomboy. The suit was worn
with chunky tan slides, a turquoise
cocktail ring and a clutch bag. But also
with nothing underneath.
Therein lies the update on the shorts
suit for a new decade: summer tailoring
now comes with a side-serving of louche.
Cast aside memories of short-shorts and
a cropped blazer (remember in the 2000s
when we thought that felt flirty?) as well
as tailored brocade two-pieces (very
Orange County graduation ceremony),
and instead embrace the youthful
breeziness born of elongated proportions.
For further details, see Tod’s, where a
chocolate satin exemplar paired with flat
leather sandals comprised a standout
look; Max Mara, where multiple shorts
suits felt faintly militaristic (fear not: you
can lose the long socks and the Villanelle
ties when wearing IRL); and Bottega
Veneta, where the two-pieces looked
characteristically sleek paired with
powder-blue mules.
“Shorts suits strike a balance between
seriousness and fun. I like that there’s
room for play,” says Yoyo Cao, the
Singapore-based entrepreneur with a
penchant for the Bermuda cut. She has
several co-ordinating sets, with a Bottega
Veneta version being her favourite. As
for advice on how to tackle the trend,
she counsels: “It’s really a moment for
footwear to take centre-stage. I usuallywear mine with a statement pair of heels
or knee-high boots.”
Drawing the eye to a skinny ankle
seems key to pulling off a long pair of
shorts. So, too, picking a high-waisted
shape that balances out a long-
line blazer, with a streamlined layer
underneath. Of course, you may prefer,
like Natalie Kingham, to steer clear of
them entirely. “Historically, I think
Bermuda shorts can be difficult for a
lot of women, unless you are very tall,
or have the attitude to pull them off,”
the fashion and buying director of
Matchesfashion.com laughs. “That said,
tailored shorts have always performed
incredibly well for us – Valentino and
Chloé do brilliantly flattering, slightly
shorter styles. I like wearing, say, a
cream pair of shorts with an oversized
navy blazer. That feels a bit more
preppy, and is easier to pull off.”
If the boyish vibe isn’t your thing,
channel Mona von Bismarck,
the Kentucky girl turned
New York high-society
phenomenon. Habitually
dripping in couture,
the countess also asked
Cristóbal Balenciaga
to create bespoke pairs
of tailored gardening
shorts (in white
linen, no less) for
her green-fingered
forays in the
garden of her
Capri villa, where
she tended to her prize-
winning tulips.
“Her dressing is high
art,” effused American
Vogue in 1936. No
tomboy, then. But –
since Mona wore her
shorts with slim-line
navy sweaters and
striped espadrilles,
and accessorised
with several small
curly haired dogs and
a wicker cuttings basket – we feel sure
she would approve of dainty sandals with
the trend. See? Shorts suddenly aren’t
NADINE IJEWERE; JASON LLOYD-EVANS; MITCHELL SAMS; PIXELATE.BIZsounding so frightening after all. nGIVENCHYShorts suits: above left, washed-cotton jacket, £625.
Shorts, £295. Both Studio Nicholson. Above, from top,
gaberdine jacket, £349. Shorts, £189. Both Boss. Viscose-
mix jacket, £269. Shorts, £169. Both Baum & PferdgartenTRENDS04-20-Trends-Shortsuit_1984505.indd 75 06/02/2020 14:16
75