The Logistics of Settling In 187Shopping in tourist areas can be traumatic. Unfortunately,
you will probably shop in these areas at some time or other
since tourism pervades so much of the Egyptian economy.
Even if you are an expatriate living in Egypt, in tourist areas,
you are just another ‘foreign tourist’ who is fair game. This is
where you will typically run the gauntlet of vendors accosting
you with all kinds of come-on statements and queries. They
can be terrible pests! It is extremely frustrating when you
say no and the hawker refuses to accept your answer, then
proceeds to follow you or grab your arm to ‘escort’ you into
his shop. If a vendor grabs your arm, feel free to pull it away
and tell him, very firmly, not to touch you. Vendors know they
should not touch you and would never consider it proper to
grab an Egyptian, especially a woman.
The best way to walk through tourist areas, such as the
famous Khan el-Khalili Bazaar, relatively unassailed or
unhassled, is to develop a posture that gives the appearance
you know where you are going and what you are doing.
Impossible at first, but easy to distinguish by shopkeepers
after you have been there a few times. Also, they probably
recognise you after a few times (even years later). I don’t
know how they do it, but shopkeepers seem to have the most
amazing memories for faces and sometimes names!
Don’t answer queries or respond to statements made as
you walk among the alleys (unless, of course, you actually
want to go in to price or purchase merchandise). Foreign
women often hear comments such as, ‘Darling, I’ve been
looking for you all my life’ or ‘Darling, I’m what you have
been looking for all your life’. There is a compelling tendency
to make a curt or snippy response. Do not give in to the
temptation. If you give any acknowledgement, you will be
followed for ages, with the vendor sometimes increasing the
suggestiveness of comments.
If you want to somehow politely acknowledge a ‘nice’
shopkeeper’s plea to look at his goods, you can refuse to
make eye contact or speak, but, with your arm by your
side and hand facing the ground, wave the hand back-and-
forth keeping the palm facing the ground. I sometimes say
‘la’ shukran’ which translates to ‘No, thank you’. Most will