Santiago – Los Ruices – 64 Kilometres ^75
The day’s riding was considerably more demanding than anticipated with the
weather sweltering, humid and hilly. The going was slow, and all I saw was the
sweat from my face dripping on the tarmac. So hot was it, by mid-day, I felt faint
and nauseous, but there was little one could do but soldier on.
By afternoon, a teeny settlement with an abandoned restaurant and small veranda
made it good enough spot to pitch the tents. Discovering a laundry trough with
running water out back was a bonus. Ernest cooked pasta and, as there was little to
do when wild camping, we crawled in early.
Los Ruices - San Feliz – 58 Kilometres
On packing up, Ernest discovered a broken spoke and nothing came of our planned
early start. It seemed there was no escaping the heat and I keenly looked at the
sky wishing for a cooling shower. Regrettably, it became one more rainless day.
Mercifully, the route reached a high point, and the remainder of the day was a
beautiful ride through the mountains, where the highlight was encountering the
Guaymi tribe. Guaymi women made traditional crafts for their own use and to sell
as an extra income. These included handmade bags from plant fibres called “kra,”
colourful dresses called “nagua” and beaded bracelets and necklaces. Men,
typically, made hats from the same material.
When the Spanish arrived in Panama, they found three distinct Guaymi tribes in
what is today western Panama. Each was named after its chief, and each spoke a
different language. The chiefs were Nata, Parita and Urraca. Urraca became famous
as he defeated the Spaniards, forcing them to sign a peace treaty in 1522.
Nonetheless, Urraca was betrayed and captured, but escaped and made his way to
the mountains, vowing to fight the Spaniards unto death, a vow he fulfilled.