172 CultureShock! Bolivia
Nearby, raised agricultural fields surrounded by
canals illustrate an ingenious farming methodology that
has excited agronomists and anthropologists around
the world.
Micros to Tiahuanaco cost about US$ 1. If you want
a more comfortable trip, organised guided tours run for
about US$ 10.
Music scene. Andean music has become universal, and is
best heard in small clubs called peñas. Local jazz groups
straddle the avant garde: a fusion of Andean instruments/
harmonies with classical African American jazz.
International and league football at Hernán Siles Stadium.
No programmes are sold, so buy any one of the local
newspapers with a colour sports insert for the line-ups.
Bolivian football is especially exciting/frustrating,
because the artistry of ball passing is superior to the
power of goal scoring. Bolívar, the best local team, often
dominates a game whose outcome remains in doubt until
the fi nal seconds.
Tear gas demonstrations. These should be observed at
a distance. Here is history in action, participatory
democracy, ritual confrontations that always end up with
negotiated settlements.
Bring a wet handkerchief, and be placed where your
escape is downhill, not up, in case the gases spread more
quickly than expected.
The Calle Jaen neighbourhood, north-east quadrant. One
of the best strolls in the world. Besides the cornices,
balconies and sculpted windows, take a peek inside the
open doors.
Most buildings here have beautiful cobblestone
courtyards, with fountains and lush gardens. Museum-
haters don’t fret; boutique museums on these streets are
not at all laborious.
Outdoor markets in the north-west quadrant, surrounding
Plaza Marcelo Quiroga Santa Cruz, including the Huyustus
and the Black Market.
All of La Paz is selling something. How can they
fi nd enough buyers? Is this Third World basic survival