Enjoying Bolivia 175trail to Coroico—or two rugged peaks to the left, at above
5,000 m (16,404 ft), both of which offer 360 degree
panoramas that include the incredible glacier of Wila
Mankilisani and straight-down views, not meant for the
faint-hearted. The only safe period for this day hike is the dry
season between May and August. Dark glasses with UV-ray
protection are indispensible. The climbing angle gets steep
and insecure near the top of these pointy peaks. Watch out for
loose shale and precarious footing on narrow snow paths.
(I thought I knew the territory like the proverbial palm of
my hand, but I once got lost when coming down from one
of those peaks, under an uncharacteristic blanket of mist in
late August. I discovered two rare Andean fl amingos wading
in their private secluded bog. Flamingos were not supposed
to hang out in this region! I had no camera but the imprint is
alive in my soul. I had to make two more climbs to 5,000 m
(16,404 ft) in order to feel my way out. It took seven hours
of uncertain trails in near zero visibility, with lots of lifesaving
meditation along the way.)
Hike 3
For a more fertile hike from La Cumbre, continue down
from La Cumbre in the mini-bus until the police checkpoint
at Unduavi. Walk right at the Sud- Yungas sign. The fern-
lined road plunges past a ghost town. A few trucks and
buses will pass by, kicking dust in your face, but traffi c
is sparse and you’ll have the path to yourself for most of
the hike.
You’re moving from cool to hot, so be prepared to strip off
layers on the way down as you pass through narrow gorges
with brillant green cover, by transparent rivers and leaping
cascades. The goal is to arrive at a narrow but towering
waterfall aptly named El Velo de la Novia (the Bride’s Veil).
Two primitive restaurants will greet you.