194 CultureShock! Boliviamillion inhabitants is just a good
place to be.
One of the best ways to ‘be’
in Cochabamba is on a bicycle.
No need for a 10-speeder;
Cochabamba’s mountains have
moved back to allow space for its fl at streets.
Cochabamba’s most captivating feature is the Centro
Cultural Pedagógico, also known as Palacio de Portales, a
mansion of the infamous tin mogul Simón Patiño, which
houses an exciting museum of modern art, a fi ne reference
library and totally preserved interiors. Designed by French
architect Eugene Bilaut to satisfy a whim of the Frenchifi ed
Patiño, the mansion also hosts concerts and lectures, in
the shadow of the mini-Versailles gardens that embellish
the mansion. The Alliance Française and Goethe Institute
complement the cultural ambience.
Cochabamba is known for the best open-air markets in
Bolivia, called canchas from the Quechua. The best view of
the central city is from above, looking down on the intricate
tile patterns of its roofi ng. Try the view from the towering
statue of Cristo Rey, on a hill just outside of the city. You
can’t miss it.
Cochabamba’s Plaza 14 de Septiembre is a refreshing
hangout, surrounded by colonial arcades and a cathedral
collage of diverse architectural styles. Various churches and
convents, including San Francisco, Santa Teresa and Santo
Domingo, help save the city from reckless modernisation,
but Cochabamba has long ago abandoned the architectural
unity that characterises Sucre.
The park at Plaza Colón is an attractive stop-off, although
locals warned us to take extra care of our belongings there
at nights. Gangs of children, called polillas (moths) reputedly
lurch in the trees. The only fringe activity we saw there during
several night promenades was a lone street walker trying in
vain to fl ag down a customer.
Cochabamba is about six hours from La Paz via a
comfortable bus ride. On our trip we were treated to an old
Pedro Infante Mexican fi lm and a Bollywood romance onBreathing is easy, the air warm and
fresh, and the blend of modern
urban life, colonial ambience and
the Quechua heritage is hard to
beat, if you don’t mind fewer
cultural activities in comparison
with La Paz.