20 CultureShock! Bolivia
simply because, in the future, construction might be initiated
that would block their sunlight.WHAT GOES DOWN MUST COME UP
Verticality is not just a climatic concern. Getting around
a multilevelled, contorted city like La Paz requires a clear
understanding of the urban geography. A few days after
our fi rst arrival, we asked our then six-year-old son how he
liked the city.
“I like the downs,” he responded, “but not the ups.”
During the adjustment stage anywhere above
2,500 m (8,202 ft)— Lake Titicaca, Potosí, La Paz, Sucre and
Cochabamba—those who depend upon exercise for their
wellbeing may feel thwarted. With every downhill walk, one
is condemned to an equal uphill trek. The proverb is reversed;
‘What goes down must come up.’ Some local doctors believe
that the dangers of uphill walking prior to adjustment far
exceed the aerobic benefi ts, in spite of the fact that long
distance runners and walkers from Mexico come to the
Bolivian highlands to train for a sport they have dominated
in international competition. These Mexican athletes come
from above 2,000 m (6,561 ft) locations, so they have already
been conditioned to altitudes.
For those of us who need exercise to feel good, there
is an answer in La Paz. From the upper ‘eyebrow’ of the
city to Humboldt Park in the south section deep below is
a nearly 800 m (2,600 ft) drop, with no uphills along the
way if you follow the main roads. Half of that distance,
beginning at the post office in downtown La Paz, will
take about an hour and 15 minutes at a brisk pace. You’ll
even get to go past the front of the president’s house. The
magnifi cent views along the way are not always pretty, but
awesome nonetheless.Watch Your Step
Be careful on pavements; repairmen don’t always cover up
excavation pits. Such safety measures would be unpatriotic, since
Bolivia’s charm lies in its unpredictability.