Culture Shock! Chile - A Survival Guide to Customs and Etiquette

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154 CultureShock! Chile


Ethnically and linguistically the Mapuche were one people,
but the vast length of their territory gave rise to differences
in dialect and customs. Those on Chiloé were sedentary and
monogamous fishermen and farmers, while those on the
mainland were polygamous nomadic fishermen, farmers
and herdsmen. The Mapuche believed that while they could
own personal property, the land and the animals were for
the common benefit of the clan. Early chronicles describe
open lands with rolling hills. The forests were kept in check
by the grazing livestock. However, after smallpox and war
decimated the Mapuche, forests reclaimed the land.
The family head was called Cacique or Lonko, and could
have as many as 10 wives as a sign of his power. The
Mapuche lived in family groups of up to 500 members.
The Caciques formed alliances with other family groups
for trade, but there was no central government. This, and
the fact that they did not have permanent villages, saved
the Mapuche from early subordination by the Spanish.
While the society was ultimately led by men, medicine
women, called Machi, were very powerful and as important
to society as the Mapuche chiefs. Until today, women in
general are held in high esteem and play a major role in
their religion. According to Mapuche tradition, only women
can communicate directly with the gods.
The spirituality of native Amerindians in general is
profound, and the Mapuches are no exception. Although
they have no temples, Mapuches believe that there are
positive and negative forces present in every act. They
look for divine intervention in all aspects of their lives. The
significant forces of life, love and creation are represented
by Ngenechen, while death and destruction are embodied
in Wekufu. Although the Mapuche accept that divine spirits
are everywhere, they nevertheless believe in the existence
of a supreme being called Guinechen (master of the land).
The east represents the positive forces and therefore plays
an important role in the lives of the Mapuche. In fact,
Mapuche dwellings, called rukas, always face east.
One of the most well-known Mapuche festivals is Ngillatun.
It is a prayer ceremony to invoke the spirit Pillán to ensure
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