The thing I first noticed: After a winding, hectic drive up from Venice
through fairly rugged terrain, we came round a blind mountain corner
to see a neon aqua lake beaming right up from the centre of the Auronzo
valley. For the next two weeks, I looked out our apartment window
multiple times a day, just to catch glittering glimpses of that aqua.
The thing about the locals: There was a laidback feel about the
people of Auronzo. Most would nod and greet you as you passed by,
and it seemed like they were making the best of being outdoors in the
warm summer weather, sunbathing in beach chairs or hiking in the
mountains. One day there was a lively group playing cards next to the
lake, and they made grand gestures for me to come join in their fun.
I loved listening to the rhythm of the Italian accent while they were
deep in conversation with each other.
The thing about the colours: Every hour of the day, the mountain
colours changed around us. Silver-blue in the early morning, then grey
and dusty towards noon. Just as the sun went to bed, they’d turn into
fluoro, peachy peaks. There were brightly painted, larger-than-life
gelato cone statues on the sidewalks, and profusely blooming pink and
red flower boxes hanging from nearly every windowsill and terrace.
The thing about the landscapes: Mount Tudaio watches over the
village from the east. Early in the morning, Lake Auronzo was
perfectly still, mirroring rows and rows of old pine trees and the
towering mountain range that rose steeply behind the village.
Auronzo is a short drive to the Dolomites, a UNESCO World
Heritage site of limestone alps. We hiked into some breathtaking
scenery there.
The thing about the food: Natural yoghurt-flavoured gelato was
a favourite indulgence for me, as was nibbling on forest berries
while hiking in the woods. There was plenty of fresh, local produce
available, and most nights, dinner was several rounds of hearty
food cooked by Aunty Maria. I particularly enjoyed her rabbit stew,
lasagne and roast capsicums.
The thing that surprised me: There were multiple water fountains
with large, stone basins placed throughout the village, continuously
running with chilly, fresh water straight from nearby mountain
springs. I spotted neighbours washing their fresh veggies and fruit;
we’d fill up our drink bottles for the day. It felt so bizarre to walk
away from a running tap you could never turn off. I couldn’t believe
how plentiful their water supply must be!
The thing about the architecture: Auronzo is in the northernmost
region of Italy, only a short distance from Austria, Germany and
Switzerland, so there’s a mixed influence on the architecture.
During winter, the village is covered in snow, so the buildings are
mostly steep-roofed chalets with slender terraces, small windows
and brightly painted timber shutters. The older style residences are
charming log cabins with carved details on their timber balconies
and little brick chimneys. I would have given anything to peep inside!
The thing I fell in love with: A baby goat in someone’s front yard that
I passed most days on my walks into the forest. He had a little bell
around his neck and a tiny black kitten in his pen, too. They were
best mates, and I had a smile on my face the whole time I watched
them frolicking together.around the world