National Geographic March2020

(Wang) #1

We stepped into his troupe’s practice room,
where Harada introduced me to his colleagues
and their furry collaborators dressed in dia-
pers, including four new babies. He explained
that the group keeps a rigorous training
schedule—two hours in the morning and two
hours in the afternoon, except on days when the
monkeys are performing.
Earlier that morning, I’d marveled at the ani-
mals’ acrobatics during a show for 300 toddlers
who were sitting with their legs crisscross in a
preschool gymnasium. The star of the show was
Ponzo, wearing a bright yellow vest and a black
jumpsuit. The children squealed with delight as
the monkey nailed his tricks, striding across the
auditorium on stilts that towered above Harada
and even catapulting over a boy who had volun-
teered to sit in a chair. “Ankoru! Ankoru!” the


children yelled. “Encore! Encore!”
Now back at the Sen-zu office, the trainers
stripped off the monkeys’ diapers and shut
them into red metal cages, where they live
when not performing. Then the trainers set
about their end-of-day routines: scrubbing foul-
smelling feces off the metal drip trays beneath
the cages and preparing bowls of oranges,
apples, and bananas for the monkeys’ dinner.
They placed the bowls in a row on the floor
and in unison presented the food to their per-
formers. It was five o’clock, time to go home.
They’d be back before breakfast to prepare for
the next show. j

Rene Ebersole writes about animals and wildlife
crime for National Geographic. Jasper Doest won
the 2019 Wildlife Photographer of the Year Photo-
journalist story award for this project.

CULTURE, OR ABUSE? 113
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