2020-05-01_Lonely_Planet_Traveller

(Joyce) #1

BIGADVENTURESON A SMALL ISLAND


WHENI GETINTOA HAMMOCK I AM
onaninstantgapyear.
Subliminally,I canhearreggaebeats
andtastepiñacoladas.I amcradledinto
a stateofperfectinner-calmastheEarth
andskyswayaroundme.Nevermindthat
+-,# $ 2 *"%#2 $0-+1.',,',%-4#0
andthehammockdepositingmeonthe
groundwitha bleedingnose.I love
hammocks.Oneday,I boughtmyown.
Fora while,it livedina remotecorner
ofmyshed,slept-inonlybyvisiting
1.'"#01 32 5'2&2&#012 1'%,1-$ 1.0',%
softeningwinter’sgrasp,it wastimeto
takeit wildcamping.I wouldalsoneed
1 x sleepingbagand1 x tarpaulin.I would
need2 x sturdytreesandI wouldneed:
‘Ropestrongenoughtoholdtheweight
ofa humanbody,’I toldthemanatthe
1&-.',#2#01#*" # 51,2 130#
whethertocallthemurdersquad,soI
triedtoputhismindatease.‘I need to
hangit froma tree,yousee.’
TheSouthDownshasthemost
woodlandofanynationalparkinthe
UK– anditsmostforestedcornerlies
#25##,#2#01#*","03,"#* "
*571 5,2#" 2- 4'1'203,"#*2&#"0*
becauseofPhilipLarkin’sfamouspoem
An Arundel Tomb – an ode to two medieval

Thetripin statistics
25 mileswalkingfromPetersfieldto
Arundel
12 metresof ropeat £11.99(maxweight
120 kg)
25 minutesonwardtrainjourney from
Arundel to Chichester

Forthistripyouwillneed
1 c o pyo fTheWhitsunWeddings,
PhilipLarkin
1 copyof OSLandrangermap 197
1 h a m m o c k (d i s c r e e t c o l o u r s a r e b e s t)

WhatI’velearned
Notallthosewhowanderarelost.
Although some definitely are.

2-+ #$%'#1 -, 2&#'013.',# 12 2'-, 07 
voyage’throughtime.Itseemedthe
perfectdestinationformyownvoyage,
aftera nightlyingsupine,stationary,
ina hammockunderSussexskies.
Withthenewropeinmyrucksack,I set
footontheSouthDownsWayonecrisp
Saturdaymorning.Theseasparkledto
thesouth.Thetrailmeanderedeastward,
2&# 13, 15#.25#1250" ',2-+.1&'0#
andDorset,thedaydrewon,andvillages
andhedgerowssnuckintoshadowsthat
pooledunderthehills.I lookedfora place
topitchup.Wildcampingisnotstrictly
lawfulinEngland.Thebest advice goes:
arrivelate,leaveearly.
I foundmyspot– a mightyyewtreein
a hollow,whosebranchesdippeddownto
theground,forminga kindofsecretgrotto.
I riggedupthehammock.I don’twantto
saywhereit was,becauseI’mnotsureI
wasmeanttobethere– butit wasmagical.
Withinthreemilesofmypitch,Google
recommendedmultiplefour-starhotels:
withchampagnebreakfasts,pillow
menus,spaswhereyoucouldstewina
Jacuzziwithcucumberslicesonyoureyes,
king-sizebedsforwatchingking-sizeTVs.
Butnoneofferedtheviewfrommybed:
starlight glinting through branches,

chalkroadsmilkywhiteundermoonlight,
thewarmglowofthepubatthefootofthe
&'** ," 12&# +--,"#.02#"," 2&#
pubshut,everythingwasthicklythatched
withshadows.Theworldbeyond
vanishedfromsight:theacre-sizedwood
1##+#"2- 120#2!&',2-, ',,'27 -$
tangledthicketsandinky-blacknooks.
Sleepingupina hammockputsyouin
thefellowshipofothertree-dwellers
whosescurryingscouldbeheardbutnot
1##, , -5* &--2#"1- *-3"*7'2 +'%&2
havebeeninthehammockwithme.
I sleptdeeply,andthenextdayI
5 *)#" 2-03,"#* 0)',1 4#01#1',
myhead:of‘lengthsandbreadthsof
time’,andtheturningoftheseasons
2&0-3%&5&'!&2&# 2-+ #$%'#1 &"
slept.Thecathedralrosemightilyover
2&# *'22*#2-5, $2#0+'*#1-$ 5*)',%
I steppedinside.Ofthe famous tombs,
therewasnosign.
I checkedWikipedia:‘[Thepoem]
describesthepoet’semotionalresponse
toseeinga pairofrecumbentmedieval
2-+ #$%'#1',&'! #02&#"0*

Stop,


Hammock Time


OliverSmitht r i esw i ldc a m p i ngw i t ha d ieren c e,p i t ch i ngu p
witha hammockin the dense forests of the South Downs
@OliSmithTravel

s


PHOTOGRAPHS:

CHRISPO/ALAMY STOCK PHOTO, HAPPYPHOTONS/SHUTTERSTOCK, DIANAFINCH/SHUTTERSTOCK,

NINOCHKA/GETTY IMAGES
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