Elle UK - 04.2020

MAME KUROGOUCHI

Th e d esig ne r...

Italian luxury brand Tod’s likes to surprise.

First came its dazzling collaboration

with beloved designer Alber Elbaz.

Now? They’ve done it all over again,

this time partnering with up-and-coming

Tokyo designer Mame Kurogouchi

(right). Dubbed by critics as the next

Sacai, Kurogouchi fuses romanticism

with Japanese tradition in a way that’s

modern, layering gauzy dresses and

silks over precise tailoring and bold floral

prints. ‘I want to open more doors for

women and create something that fits

into every lifestyle,’ says the designer,

whose real name is Maiko. The ‘Mame’

in the brand’s name translates to ‘bean’ in

English – a nickname she was given due to her diminutive size.

The intricacy of her craftsmanship is steeped in Japanese

tradition, learned from Bunka design school, the alma mater of

designers Yohji Yamamoto and Junya Watanabe, and Kurogouchi’s

time working with Issey Miyake before launching her own brand in

2O1O. ‘My small but nature-rich hometown Nagano has always

been at the root of my work,’ she says. ‘But I’m not insistent on

Japanese craft, it’s always been an organic choice. If there is any

meaning in producing something new, it has to bear a certain value.’

MEE T JAPAN’S BREAKOUT FASHION DESIGN STAR WHO’S

MAKING TRADITIONAL CRAFT COOL

Photography: Gett y Images, Imaxtree, Lucky If Sharp.

THE DECONSTRUCTED TRENCH

The catwalks and streets were awash with distorted trench coats – wear it cropped, slashed or spliced together with prints.

Or simply update your trusty old favourite with a bright checked scarf in place of a belt.

Consider...

The waist drape

The c rop

The contrast

The slash-sleeve

The punk print

That’s what fans of Tod’s signature styles, such as its gum-soled

driving shoes, can expect from this collaboration, plus new

accessories by Kurogouchi. ‘Craftsmanship is the new logo,’ she

says. So the designs, like her own label, feature minimal branding,

letting details such as a leather embroidery technique that echoes

traditionalkogin zashiembroidery stand out. ‘Mame Kurogouchi

is a small brand; I want to bring Japanese craftsmanship to a

wider audience,’ she adds. ‘Tod’s and I have that in common.’

Tod’s T Factory x Mame Kurogouchi is available at tods.com

Need to know

KUROGOUCHI IS

FUSING FORWARD-

THINKING FASHION

WITH CRAFT FOR HER

TOD’S COLLABORATION

MAME KURO-GOUCHI

Bag, £2,550, and sandals,

£698, bothTOD’S T FACTORY X

MAME KUROGOUCHI

Shoes, £470,

TOD’S T

FACTORY X MAME

KUROGOUCHI

BURBERRY

ALEXANDERMcQUEEN ALTUZARRA

JW ANDERSON

The bustie r The top - chop

66 ELLE.COM/UK^ April 2020

Elle UPFRON T