Sunset+201810

(Tina Meador) #1
9 A.M. Start your morning
in Ketchum at The Knead-
ery (kneadery.com) amid
antlers and fish portraits.
The log cabin has been
serving omelets and butter-
milk pancakes since 1974.
10 A.M. Walk a few blocks
to The Community
Library (comlib.org), a
charming 1976 building
that houses an extensive,
unique Hemingway collec-
tion, including insightful
oral history interviews
with friends and family
members.
11 A.M. Add to your own
trove at the nearby Chap-
ter One Bookstore
(chapteronebookstore.net).
The building used to be
Dick Alfs Fly Shop, where
the author purportedly
picked up hand-tied flies
for his river trips.
12 P.M. After grabbing
picnic provisions at Atkin-
sons’ Market (208/726-
5668), detour 30 miles
south to Silver Creek
Preserve (nature.org/
silvercreek), where Heming-
way took his young sons
in the 1930s. An audio
tour of the site is narrated
by Mariel Hemingway,
actress, author, and grand-
daughter of Ernest.
3 P.M. Back in Ketchum,
visit the recently expanded
Hemingway exhibit at The
Sun Valley Museum of
History (comlib.org) to

check out personal letters,
a Royal typewriter he
took to Havana, and arti-
facts from the Hemingway
house, such as a manu-
scripts briefcase stamped
with his initials.
4:30 P.M. Pay your respects
at the Ketchum Cemetery
(ketchumcemetery.org),
where Hemingway is bur-
ied under three towering
evergreen trees.
6 P.M. For dinner, settle in
at Michel’s Christiania
Restaurant and Olympic
Bar (michelschristiania.
com) for classic French
dishes like trout meunière.
The writer dined here
so frequently he had his
own table.
9 P.M. Check in at the Sun
Valley Lodge (from $339;
sunvalley.com), where he
stayed in 1939 while writ-
ing For Whom the Bell
Tolls. Up for a nightcap?
Try one of his favorite
on-site haunts, the Duchin
Lounge. It’s since been
modernized, but you can
easily imagine the spirit
of Papa Hemingway
sauntering through the
mountain-chic digs.

EXPLORE

Walk a legend’s
stomping grounds
Ernest Hemingway first visited central Idaho
in the fall of 1939; he later bought a home in
Ketchum and was living there when he passed
away in 1961. The local library acquired the prop-
erty in 2017 and recently began adding artifacts
from the home into its history museum. With
a new walking tour app rolling out soon, there’s
never been a better time to step into Papa’s shoes.


  • IDAHO’S STALKER
    CREEK IN THE SILVER
    CREEK PRESERVE.


  • ERNEST HEMINGWAY
    AND HIS SON GREGORY
    IN SUN VALLEY, 1941.




SUNSET ❖ OCTOBER 2018 29

RIGHT: ROBERT CAPA/INTERNATIONAL CENTER OF PHOTOGRAPHY/MAGNUM PHOTOS

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