Sunset+201810

Bean Smackdown

STOCKPOT V. INSTANT POT

After many trials in the Sunset Test Kitchen, we see the virtues of each

of these methods when making beans. For the most evenly cooked

beans, use a regular stockpot—and no need to presoak. In the speed

category, the Instant Pot wins—but only by about half an hour. Older

beans (and some harder varieties, like chickpeas) will take longer,

either way. Both methods below make 3^1 ⁄ 2 cups.

STOCKPOT

TIME: 2 hours

METHOD: Put 1^1 ⁄ 3 cups rinsed

dried beans in a stockpot with

enough water to cover by 2^1 ⁄ 2 in.

Cover, bring to a boil over high

heat, and boil 3 minutes. Reduce

heat and simmer until beans are

tender, about 1^1 ⁄ 2 hours, adding

(^1) ⁄ 2 tsp. kosher salt, if you like,
after 1 hour.
INSTANT POT
TIME: 11 ⁄ 2 hours
METHOD: Put 1^1 ⁄ 3 cups rinsed
dried beans into Instant Pot with
water to cover by 1 in. and^1 ⁄ 2 tsp.
kosher salt, if you like. Secure
lid and set vent to Sealing. Select
the Multigrain setting (it adds a
presoak) on high and set cooking
time for 35 minutes. Let pressure
release naturally for 15 minutes,
then switch to Venting and let
remaining steam escape.
▾
GOOD TO KNOW
“FROM-SCRATCH BEANS ARE EASY, AND ONCE YOU KNOW
THE BASICS, YOU CAN TRY OUT MORE-UNUSUAL KINDS YOU
WOULDN’T BE ABLE TO FIND IN CANS.”
—ELAINE JOHNSON, SUNSET SENIOR FOOD EDITOR
Favorite Drizzle s
California flows with vibrant extra-
virgin olive oils. Buy now, or look
for the new crop in December
(check labels for harvest date).
Here are four bottles we love:
•Citrusy, balanced McEvoy Ranch
Lemon Olive Oil ($25/12.7 fl. oz.;
mcevoyranch.com )
•Bold, herbaceous Wonder Valley
Olive Oil ($33/12.7 fl. oz.;
welcometowondervalley.com )
•Complex, Sicilian-varietal
Bondolio Extra Virgin Olive Oil
($22/250 ml.; bondolio.com )
•Grassy, tropical California Olive
Ranch Reserve Collection Arbe-
quina Extra Virgin Olive Oil ($20/
500 ml.; californiaoliveranch.com)
STONE SOUP
MAKES 3 TO 3^1 ⁄ 2 QTS. /
11 ⁄ 2 HOURS
2 tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil,
plus more for serving (see
“Favorite Drizzles,” above)
5 to 7 garlic cloves, minced
1 tbsp. chopped fresh rosemary
11 ⁄ 2 tsp. chopped fresh oregano
2 large tomatoes, cored and
coarsely chopped
2 cups peeled, coarsely
chopped winter squash, such
as butternut
2 to 3 carrots, peeled and
coarsely sliced
2 cans (15 to 16 oz. each) beans,
such as cannellini or kidney,
drained and rinsed; or 3 cups
home-cooked beans (see
“Bean Smackdown,” right)
2 qts. reduced-sodium chicken
broth
1 bunch kale, ribs removed,
coarsely chopped
1 to 2 cups fresh or frozen
peas
1 cup elbow macaroni or other
small, tube-shaped pasta
Salt and freshly ground pepper
1 handful parsley, chopped,
for serving
(^1) ⁄ 2 cup freshly grated parmesan
cheese (optional), for
serving

1. In a dutch oven or large pot,
   heat 2 tbsp. olive oil over
   medium heat. Add garlic and
   cook, stirring, until softened,
   30 to 60 seconds. Add rose-
   mary, oregano, tomatoes,
   squash, and carrots and cook
   3 to 4 minutes. Put beans in
   pot along with broth.


2. Bring to a boil, then reduce
   heat and simmer, partially
   covered, until squash is
   tender when pierced but
   not mushy, at least 30 min-
   utes, stirring occasionally.


3. Add kale, peas, and pasta.
   Continue cooking until pasta
   is tender, 10 to 15 minutes.
   Season with salt and pepper
   to taste. Serve with extra
   olive oil to drizzle on top,
   the parsley, and grated
   parmesan if you like.

PER 2-CUP SERVING 186 Cal., 15%

(28 Cal.) from fat; 10 g protein; 3.2 g fat

(0.5 g sat.); 31 g carbo (11 g fiber);

388 mg sodium; 0 mg chol. LC/LS

SUNSET ❖ OCTOBER 2018 83

TOP RIGHT: E. SPENCER TOY