2020-04-01_Conde_Nast_Traveler

REPEAT STAY

“I always go to the
Rambagh Palace
hotel, which was once
a maharaja’s residence.
It’s green and peaceful
despite being in the
center of the city; a
place where you can
hear the murmur of
fountains and people
speaking in low voices.”
Doubles from about
$649; tajhotels.com

THE FLAVOR HIT

“Lassiwala, around
the corner from Jayanti
Market, has the best
lassi in India. I’ve tried

many different ver-

sions, but this one is

by far the best.”

DAILY RHYTHM

“There’s always some-

thing new to discover

here, so each day is dif-

ferent. I wake up early,

order breakfast—

usually masala chai

and almost-burnt

toast—and then I set

out to find new stones.

I’ve always found

the Jaipur jewelry tra-

dition to be so vibrant.

All throughout India

there’s a knowledge

of the craft that’s

unlike anywhere else

in the world: how the

cutting of a stone can

change its appearance,

shade, even how the

light catches.”

SHOPPING TIPS

“Bapu Bazar market

is fun but frenzied.

I like to visit the Gem

Palace to buy gifts and

chat with the owner. I

know the family well

through Bulgari, which

has been working with

them for years—espe-

cially the son of the

owner, who is great at

discovering jewels. The

store is like a treasure

trove. I often stop by

Anokhi for clothing

and textiles. The fabrics

come in colors as bril-

liant as gemstones, plus

they’re light enough

to wear in the heat.”

TABLES TO BOOK

“I often go to the

Oberoi Rajvilas, which

has two beautiful

restaurants: Surya

Mahal and Raj Mahal.

It’s a marvelous hotel,

set among scenic lanes

to the east of the city. I

typically order tandoori

chicken served with rice

and not-too-spicy vege-

tables.” Entrées from

$20; oberoihotels.com

SHOWSTOPPER

“In the evening I like to

head over to the Hawa

Mahal, or Palace of

Winds, overlooking one

of the main streets in

the Old City. Its façade

is breathtaking: the

architecture, the sil-

houette, the contrast

of the terra-cotta pink

against the bright blue

sky. It’s in a busy area,

but it wouldn’t be India

without the crowds.”

–charlotte davey

Jaipur’s Jal Mahal,

or Water Palace, atop

Man Sagar Lake

Silvestri, in front of

Nahargarh Fort

The creative director of the Italian jewelry brand on India’s Pink City,

where she goes to hunt down the brightest gems

Bulgari’s Lucia Silvestri shares her

Jaipur Black Book

36 CONDÉ NAST TRAVELER APRIL 2020

PHOTOGRAPHS: LUCIE GAGNON; BULGARI

word of mouth^ ➤^ the insider