ClimberMayJune2020

24 may–jun 2020 http://www.climber.co.uk

The pyramid-shaped boulder on the

edge of the tarn is called the President’s

Boulder and presents a fine hopping

challenge for those wanting to put off the

walk up the scree. (Go back to the start if

any part of the anatomy touches the rock

other than a foot.) The water tempera-

ture in the tarn is below freezing all year

round even though it may appear to be

liquid.

It was a hot day, so even the diagonal

path up the scree to the foot of the ‘C’

Buttress was going to be sticky work.

(Only idiots and off-comers go straight

up.) And so it was, but we finally made

it and got settled under Great Gully to

sort out gear. You don’t need a big rack

for Nimrod: the first pitch is the best

protected, the second has adequate

gear and the third is good in parts.

Choosing which pitch to lead is tricky,

but I like to do the first and third. The first

at 5a is lovely wall climbing. Not too

strenuous but very involving. The small

overlap is overcome without trouble

and then comes the pleasant traverse

followed by downclimbing to a belay.

It’s at this point that you will realise that

you could have scrambled to the belay

from the start of the route. A bit strange,

but the pitch is delightful.

There are two possibilities for the

second pitch. You can either climb the

groove or more enjoyably start up the

groove and traverse left to the arête.

The second option is slightly easier but

less well protected. I decided not to

tell John about option one, so he set

off, fixing good gear in the groove and

then traversing out left. There’s the

juggiest jug on the arête. With hardly

a pause he got hold of it and pulled

through to easier ground and the belay

on Giant’s Crawl.

The third pitch is the crux. Getting

established on the ledge is the problem,

followed by an intricate series of crimps,

side-holds and foot shuffles to make

progress leftwards. The exposure is

wonderful. When you get the good

holds take the time to look around.

Getting off the route involves

downclimbing pitch 5 of Giant’s Crawl

• you may want to consider roping up.
  It may only be Diff, but it’s an awkward
  corner.
  It was now much hotter than when
  we arrived and the idea of a dip in the
  tarn was mooted. How cold could it be?
  So, in we went ... and out I got within
  ten seconds. We walked down to the
  car with teeth chattering and we had
  to have a pint in The Sun in Coniston
  in order to recover.
  When we discuss what makes a
  three-star route, various factors are
  usually raised, such as purity of line,
  continually interesting climbing, variety
  and inescapability. Well two of those
  don’t apply to Nimrod. What you get is
  variety and interest all the way. It’s
  utterly fantastic. n

Steep gymnastic moves on
pitch 2. Climber is Tony Daly.
Photo: Ian Parnell

feature

CLIFF

B Buttress Upper, Dow Crag,

Coniston.

ROUTE

Nimrod (E1 5c, 275ft/84m).

FIRST ASCENT

D. Miller and D. Kirby, June 1962.

MAP/APPROACH

OS Landranger 96 Barrow-in-

Furness & South Lakeland;

GR: SD 264977; Walna Scar Road

car park at end of minor road

west off A593 in Coniston:

2 miles, allow 1.5 hours.

GOOD CONDITIONS

After two dry days.

CAMPSITES/BUNKHOUSES

YHA Coniston Holly How youth

hostel and campsites along

Coniston Water.

GUIDEBOOK/

BIBLIOGRAPHY

Lake District Rock

(Wired Guides, 2015).

OTHER CLIMBS

Catacomb and Tarkus give fine

companion routes at the same grade.