ClimberMayJune2020

40 may–jun 2020 http://www.climber.co.uk

INTRODUCTION

The western section of the Alps is one of

the world’s most famous mountain ranges.

It roughly comprises the Mont Blanc

massif on the French-Italian border, the

Pennine Alps of Switzerland and Italy,

and the Bernese Oberland to the North

of the Rhone. The history of the Western

Alps is full of derring-do and epics, but

don’t be fooled into thinking the Alps

are just for the hardened climber, there

is a challenge to suit everyone. If you’ve

always fancied climbing to the top of

a mountain and looking down on the

world, don’t let your lack of experience

stop you.

Visiting the Alps for the first time

can be a daunting experience. To short

circuit the learning process and gain

confidence hire an IFMGA Mountain

Guide (www.bmg.org) for a few days

or go on an introductory course (head

to http://www.jagged-globe.co.uk/climb/

course/i/alps+intro.html) for an example

of what kind of courses are available)

that takes you into the heart of the Alps.

You don’t need to be a climber, simply

a walker with a sense of adventure.

Add some scrambling into your

repertoire and you have the mightiest

of Alpine peaks within your grasp.

THE NUTS AND BOLTS

The Alps differ from the mountains of the

UK in their scale and altitude but if you

revel in the magic of long days and enjoy

the contentment that pushing yourself

can give, then the easier Alpine peaks are

for you. With the scale, however, comes

altitude. The age old adage of gain height

as slowly as you can works well and most

people will adjust to the rarified atmo-

sphere without adverse effects. The way

Alpinists deal with weather is another

aspect of Alpine climbing that can seem

strange to UK mountaineers. In the UK,

even in winter, weather is usually just

something we put up with. In the Alps,

storms can be so violent that you can

move neither up nor down. Thunder and

lightning, originating as huge cumulous

clouds over the distant plains, are

common in the afternoons even in good

weather. The hot sun and the prospect of

afternoon storms usually means an early

start is necessary, sometimes as early as

1am for bigger mountains. It is possible

for the hardy to bivouac, but most people

stay in cosy Alpine huts. I have a love/

hate relationship with huts, but they do

make life a lot more comfortable.

For all Alpine peaks, whatever the

grade, it is likely that you will have to

learn the skills of glacier travel. If

everyone is doing their job correctly a

short fall into a crevasse is nothing more

than a bar room tale, but it is important

to have the skills of crevasse rescue up

your sleeve for the very rare occasion

that someone goes further in. The Alps

are under constant freeze thaw, so

serac/icefall collapse or rockfall is more

likely, especially if you are out late into

the afternoon (another reason to get up

early). It isn’t a big issue on the glaciated

routes, but the best policy is always to be

aware of what is above you, as well as

other mountaineers.

feature

Stunning light on the western
aspect of Gran Paradiso,
with the mountain’s scoured
North Face on the right.
Photo: Alun Richardson