http://www.climber.co.uk may–jun 2020 41
A typical itinerary for a novice
would be to start on smaller moun-
tains in the heart of a range with
a possible hut to hut trek. Gaining
altitude as you progress through the
week means that after three or four
days most people will be acclimatised
enough to attempt a simple 4,000m
peak. Chamonix is world famous
amongst Alpine climbers for the
highest mountain in the Western Alps,
Mont Blanc, which dominates the
skyline above the town. The history
of Chamonix alone makes it a great
place to start your Alpine career, but
be aware it can be an intimidating
place with many almost vertical peaks
rising out of the valley. Hidden away,
however, are some real gems that
are ideal first mountains. One of my
favourite tours is to spend three
days in Chamonix acclimatising and
practising some basic techniques,
then head for the highest independent
peak in Italy, the 4,061m Gran
Paradiso.
GOOD INTRODUCTION PEAKS Petit Fourche 3,512m, Point D’Orny 3,269m
This itinerary starts from the Albert Premier Hut at 2,706m. The hut is perched
above the Tour Glacier and has amazing views across to the Aiguille Rouge range.
The sunset from there is simply stunning. The start of the walk to the hut is from
Le Tour, at the head of the Chamonix Valley. Take the cable car to Charamillon
and then the chairlift to La Balme. A well-marked path then leads southeastwards,
around the slopes of the Bec du Picheu, towards le Fenêtre de Tour. A fine ridge line
to the right side of the glacier takes you to the hut.
The route starts with a stunning walk across the Glacier du Tour with the Aiguille
du Chardonnet catching the rising sun. At a rocky lump called the ‘Signal Reilly’,
it crosses the glacier in the middle towards the far southwest corner to approach
the Col Blanc; Le Petit Fourche is just above. The mountain can be climbed anywhere
so it is easy to stay away from other teams. The north west slope is the most popular
route, with good terrain for learning to move quickly on snow and low angle ice.
The summit ridge is an easy scramble but exposed and the summit is small. 6Alpine DreAming – Visiting the Alps for the first time
EQUIPMENT FOR ALPINE CLIMBING
Don’t carry anything unnecessary. Light + light + light = heavy.- A narrow profile 30/40L rucksack is fine. You can get away with the odd
thing properly attached on the outside but remember it can get wet. - Lightweight, waterproof jacket and trousers.
- Three to four thin layers including wicking base layers, mid-weight fleece,
softshell jacket and a Primaloft jacket for particularly cold conditions. - B2 boots are fine for easier peaks and I wear gaiters when
on snow or scree. General purpose 12-point crampons will deal with every
situation a novice is likely to encounter. - Good quality category 4 sunglasses.
- Sun block and lip block.
- Head torch and spare batteries.
- Two pairs of gloves – a thinner fleece pair and a pair suitable for cold
mornings. - General mountaineering ice-axe – 65cm will suit most people.
- Lightweight general mountaineering harness.
- Ropes – it is possible to get 9mm single ropes and these will cope well with
easier routes. A 40m or 50m length is okay. - First aid, blister kit and a two-person shelter.
- Water Bottle.
Who wouldn’t want to be
here? Moving together up
the Trient Glacier. Photo:
Alun Richardson