ClimberMayJune2020

Recommended Routes:

Sgrech yr Hebog (F5c)
This is the best of the bunch on D M Walls
and is a lovely little climb with the main
highlight being a nice series of fairly sust-
ained, balancey moves up an open groove.
There are a useful cluster of other
off-vertical routes (in a favourable way)
on this wall from F4 to F6a – check out
Welsh Fargo at F5a for a good gently
angled pitch, for example, and perfect
for lower grade climbers. Because it’s
the furthest to walk to, you can often
have the wall to yourself.
Moving rightwards you pass the Over
Yr Wall, which is subject to seasonal bird
restrictions (see Seasonal Restrictions
below) and is home to routes from F4a
to F6b+ with a good selection below F6a,
again on slabby rock. Spoilt a little by
a band of horizontal loose rock cutting
across the crag, it does have some decent
climbing and, in particular, Free Wales
(F4a) and Welsh Wizard (F4c) are enjoy-
able, easier fare, as is the amusingly
named Dai Laughing (F5a) up a slabby rib.
Before you get to the impressive
Compact Wall (or past it as the case may
be), there’s a good little area to its left,
Fudd Wall and Furry Wall. The routes to
check out are Crocs (F5c), a great little
short face climb and No Reptiles (F6a),
a little beauty with some interesting,
sustained wall climbing.

All Fudd Up (F6a)

A neat route on perpendicular Fudd Wall

on the right, and whilst only short at 9m,

it certainly packs it in. Indeed, I have

friends who swear it’s undergraded and

should be F6a+ but trust me, it isn’t.

Unfortunately, it is a little close to the

crack on the left and the diffi culty of the

climbing does depend on how strict you

are with the line. It can also suffer from

seepage in the winter but if you fi nd it

dry, jump on it and have a blast.

COMPACT WALL

Moving around the corner you will fi nd

what I regard as the best piece of rock

at Trevor in the shape of Compact Wall.

Yes, the clue is in the name with the

rock throwing up a set of and absorbing

technical climbs that will test crimp

strength. You also need to be climbing

in the low to mid F6s to get anything

out of the wall.

Borderline (F6a+)

This route on the left-hand side of superb

Compact Wall is one of the best routes

at Trevor and with good reason. Brilliant

and somewhat sustained fi ngery moves

through an exquisite section in the

bottom half leads to a fi nish that keeps

on going. Diffi cult to on-sight given the

hidden nature of some holds and not

easy but push on and something will

crop up. If this is in your grade range

and you only do one route there, then

this is the one. Bear in mind though

that it is shiny in places and reachy at

the top if you go direct, but you can

make it simpler by moving slightly right.

Traction Control (F6c)

Another gem to the right of Borderline

and a great redpoint project for those

looking to push their grade. It’s one of

the best routes of its standard on Clwyd

limestone too. Super crimpy and unrel-

enting it requires good footwork and takes

a little thought to hit the right sequence

hence it would be a good project. You

need strong fi ngers though. 6

http://www.climber.co.uk MAYJUN 2020 51

EASY SPORT  TREVOR ROCKS, WALES

COMPACT WALL

1. Borderline (F6a+)


2. Margin of Error (F6c)


3. Traction Control (F6c)


4. Checkpoint Charlie (F6b)


5. Lost Control (F6b)


6. The Great Escape (F6a+)


7. I Met a Man from Mars (F6a+)


8. Boreholederline (F5c)

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