ClimberMayJune2020

http://www.climber.co.uk may–jun 2020 53

Cluedo (F5c)
Moving up a couple of notches, this
route climbs through some lovely rock
with a particularly exciting pull around
the bulge at two-thirds height. Don’t be
too intimidated as there is a well-placed
bolt and equally well-placed holds for
the move over and an easier finish.

Forever the Suspect (F6a+)
Yet another example of the excellent
compact rock in this area with superb
climbing on the left-hand side of this
thin calcite wall.

Disappearing act (F5a)

This follows a slim groove-cum-corner

with a few bridging moves and plenty

of positive holds to aid progress. Well

worth a look.

Clue, So? (F4)

The arête immediately right is enjoyable

and certainly popular; great as a

warm-up or final route of the day.

Easy sport – trEvor rocks, WalEs

4 One last pull. Tom Grady climbing through the bulge to reach

the lower off at the top of Under Suspicion (F6b) on Suspect Wall.

FAMILY FRIENDLY?

You bet. With plenty of things to do in

the area it is brilliant for the family and

non-climbing members. The approach to the

crag is straightforward and the wide, flat base

under the crag is child-friendly so a win-win

situation for those wanting to sneak in a

couple of hours’ climbing between family

duties. On nice days the parking areas closest

to the crag can fill up quickly so get there

early or be prepared to walk a little further.

GUIDEBOOK AND WEBSITE

Clwyd Limestone (Rockfax, 2015) has details

of the routes and all the other fine crags

in the area. You can also find details on Gary

Gibson’s website http://www.sportsclimbs.co.uk

with downloadable topos. Gibson put up

most of the sport routes at Trevor in the

Noughties so consider a donation to his

bolt fund on the site.

PARKING AND

ACCOMMODATION, ETC.

There is an ample parking area (on all but

the busiest days) on the Panorama Drive

above Llangollen – map reference: SJ229433.

A useful website to the area with details

on places to eat, drink and sleep, including

campsites, can be found at http://www.llangollen.

org.uk

SEASONAL RESTRICTIONS

The RAD database on the BMC web site

informs, ‘The whole escarpment is a SSSI

with many valuable conservation features

including; rare cliff flora, well-developed (and

undisturbed) scree slopes, and established

pairs of legally protected breeding birds. In

comparison to other parts of the country, the

Clwyd birds appear to nest slightly earlier in

the year and voluntary restrictions therefore

apply from 15th Feb - 15th July inclusive.

Local conservation volunteers monitor the

nesting birds and agree appropriate nesting

restrictions each year with the BMC. Relations

between climbers, the local conservationists

and Denbighshire County Council remain very

good and it is important visitors continue to

adhere to the nesting restrictions and

conservation advice’. The nest sites are

located between markers (half red, half green

metal squares) placed by DCC at the base of

the crag in the Trevor Area normally around

the Over Yr Wall area. Please respect these

restrictions to keep continued access to this

group of fantastic crags. n

No Reptiles (F6a) on Furry Walls has some

interesting and reasonably sustained wall

climbing that is worth a look.