(Jacob Rumans) #1

6 may–jun 2020

On Ben Nevis, conditions were except-
ionally good and many ascents were
made of the Minus gullies, which are
rarely in condition. The Douglas Boulder
was in great shape too, with helpful ice
on many routes, however, higher up the
mountain, the unusually icy conditions
made protecting the steeper mixed
routes particularly challenging. Despite
this, ascents were made of Sioux Wall
(VIII,8) and Darth Vader (VII,7), although
on Gargoyle Wall (VI,6), only seven
runners were found in five pitches.

Further north, Scott Grosdanoff and
Rene Lisac (Croatia) climbed the classic
Gully of the Gods (VI,6) on Beinn Bhan,
and Dave Almond and Trym Saelend
(Norway) made the third ascent of
Feast of the East (VIII,9) on the Eastern
Ramparts of Beinn Eighe. Also on Beinn
Eighe, Neil Adams and Peter Hoang
(Canada) made an ascent of the modern
classic Sundance (VIII,8) and Callum
Johnson and Lukas Klingora (Czech
Republic) came away with the fourth
ascent of Boggle (VIII,8).

In Glen Coe, Paul Ramsden and
Wadim Jablonski (Poland) climbed the
superlative Central Grooves (VII,7) on
Stob Coire nan Lochan and, higher up
on Church Door Buttress, Willis Morris
and Steve Towne (USA) made the second
ascent of Hoargasm (VII,8), followed by
Crypt Route (IV,6). A little to south on
Creag an Socach above Bridge of Orchy,
Messiah (VI,7) saw several ascents and
Neil Adams and Peter Hoang (Canada)
made the third ascent of Defenders of
the Faith (IX,9). 6





The weather gods shone brightly on the International Winter Meet during the last week

of February. After a slow start to the winter, February storms plastered the Glen Coe

mountains and Ben Nevis with snow and the ensuing freeze thaws produced some

of the best ice conditions for several years. This was a relief to the 28 guest climbers

from 22 countries and their 28 British hosts who went on to enjoy six non-stop days

of winter climbing notching up ascents of 150 climbs from the North West to the

Southern Highlands, including six new routes.

Luca Celano and Tom Phillips
(Netherlands) laughing
through the spindrift on
Minus One Gully (VI,6), Ben
Nevis. Photo: Hamish Frost

simon Richardson reports

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