Recommended problems – although
the others here are good too:Staffordshire Flyer (Font 6b)
Takes on the impressive scooped roof
on the right side of the leftmost block.
Crimp out of the roof using small holds
to a good hold on the lip. A pull up
rightwards brings another good ’un
and all too soon the top. Simply brilliant
and, trust me, it looks harder than it is.The Arête (Font 6c)
The perfectly formed arête from standing
requires a bit of layback power and a
high left foot to get started. The rest,
whilst no pushover, should be plain
sailing if you can do the starting moves.
If that’s not enough and you have power
to burn, you can tick a Font 7b from a
burly sit start using undercuts before
finishing up the arête.Drowning Pool (Font 7a+)
Grasp the rounded hold down and
right and move left to a sloper before
determination and couple of trick
moves gain the hanging flake; tough.Another Nadin Traverse (Font 7c)
Yet another quality addition from Simon
Nadin and he left a fair few in Stafford-
shire and continues to do so close to
his home in the north of Scotland.
A powerful sloping lip traverse from
The Arête to finish up Drowning Pool.Groovy Crack (Font 4)
Tenuous moves lead into the hanging
crack. A neat problem and very steady at
the grade. Chipped Wall just right provides
a naughty but nice problem at Font 3+.Pocket Right-hand (Font 6c)
A challenging technical number. Starting
from the same place as the next problem
(The Arch), head up and left via a small
pocket on the slab. There’s also a harder
version, Pocket Left-hand, starting to the
left in a niche and going up and right to
the same pocket at Font 6c+.The Arch (Font 6a+)
Boulder into and follow the arch feature
rightwards via undercuts to the top.
A cracker that’s a little trickier than
you think so show it some respect
and life will be easier.Little Flake (Font 6a+)
Climb straight up to the flake right of the
arch and left of the arête. A burly low start
can be done on undercuts and jams at Font
6b+ with a sprint up the flake to finish.66 mAy–juN 2020 http://www.climber.co.uk
ARouND The bLoC
8 One of the delightful
easier problems is Easy Arête
(Font 3+) at the left-hand end
of the boulders. Josh Pimms
is working his way to the top.
6 Pete Bridgwood on the
starting moves of Drowning
Pool (Font 7a+). Not easy.