ClimberMayJune2020

http://www.climber.co.uk may–jun 2020 75

Deuter Guide 34+
Weight: 1.33kg RRP: £140
A new lighter weight rucksack from Deuter. It has a really nice shape, cut
away at the base which not everyone will like as it doesn’t sit easily on the
ground but it does mean when you are climbing down and facing out that the
’sack doesn’t catch on the ground potentially tipping you forward like a square
bodypack, this is especially the case when climbing down steep terrain.
There is a really comfy harness, no weight saved but it means you are always
guaranteed a comfortable carry. The padding on the waistbelt can be stripped
out to save a bit of weight, there is a stretchy zipped pocket on the right side
of the waistbelt which is great for sun cream, lippy and snacks essential on
a long route and on the left side there is a simple gear loop.
On the body of the ’sack there are four compression straps and the
bottom one has reinforcement for skis. If we continue with the outside
there are chain loops for attaching kit and there are two axe loops.
A supplied helmet net clips on easily. The one element the jury is still
out on is the L-shaped external zip. This is a common feature on ski
packs but I do have a few concerns about this durability when thrashing
about in a granite chimney. On the lid there is an external zip pocket.
The lid can be extended a long way to add extra capacity. Inside the lid
there is a rope loop then a snow skirt. There is an internal lid pocket and
hydration pocket. The internal metal stiffening rods also can be removed.
This is a great rucksack.

Lowe alpine Halcyon 35-40
Weight: 1.31kg RRP: £120
As ever, Lowe have a great range of ’sacks, but I chose the Halcyon for
review as I felt it was the one that offered me the most versatility and that
would cover most of my mountain activities. The ’sack follows a classic
design with a single hook closure on the extendable lid, the lid is attached
and easy to adjust to give the extra five litres. When in climbing mode and
the pack is not so full the lid stuffed inside the stiffened weather flap and
clips across to the top of the pack making for a really neat closure system.

The lid itself has a big external zip pocket and a smaller internal zip

pocket and a rope attachment loop that can be used as a closed loop

or to clip across to the weather flap, another neat feature that combines

with the compression straps to hold the shaft of an axe.

On the outside of the ’sack there are reinforced ski slots and two

compression straps on each side, there are two ice-axe attachments

which are the thread-through style. There is an external access zip,

which we were still unsure about as a concept across all ’sacks, not

just Lowe, but it does give access easily. The back is a really clean,

snow shedding design and the waist and shoulder straps are really

comfortable, the waist strap padding is easily removed and there are

two gear loops on the padded section. You can also remove the back

stiffener. The shape of the pack is really neat, not as cut away as the

Deuter model but more shape than some. Internally there is a hydration

pocket and the lining of the ’sack is white or yellow (or orange) so it is

really easy to find things.

I really liked the Halcyon in the 35-40 model and I could do everything,

winter climb, Alpine climb and ski tour and it felt like the distillation of all

the things I have liked in a Lowe pack over the years. If you need a bit

more capacity, there is a 45-50L version.

Salewa apex Guide 45

Weight: 1.21 g (825g stripped down) RRP: £160

This is an interesting ’sack from Salewa and, to a degree, one that aims to

be all things to all people for a multitude of uses. Let’s start with the overall

design which is a roll top bag with an extendable lid that can easily be

removed. With the lid removed and the top rolled down then the ’sack feels

pretty neat when climbing and with the lid on it can be piled high for long

approaches. There is a safety style pocket at the front with a zip access.

This is a feature I value as a ski pack, there are sleeves for a shovel handle

and probe, but it will only take a small shovel blade so if you are thinking

about using this for skiing check the size.

Externally there are ski slots at the base, under the compression straps,

and a top clip strap, elasticated axe threads and a loop in the top compres-

sion straps make for easy tool carriage. There is an external zip for main

compartment access as well as an external security style pocket. 6

Lowe Alpine

Halcyon 35 40

Deuter Guide 34+