82 MAY JUN 2020 http://www.climber.co.uk
8 Jerry making the first
ascent of Master’s Wall
(E7 6b), Cloggy, Wales.
Photo: Roland Foster
6 Jerry Moffatt making
the first ascent of Dominator
(V12), Camp 4, Yosemite in
- Photo: Kurt Albert
Jerry was born in 1963 in Leicestershire,
England. Moffatt always pushed himself
and had the drive to establish himself
as possibly the fi rst climber ever to be
crowned the world’s best due to his
ability to establish world fi rsts across
the globe. He did the world’s fi rst F8a
with Oyster on Pen Trwyn, Wales.
In September 1983 in Germany he
did the fi rst F8a+ with a new route
called The Face.
In May 1984 he climbed Revelations
on Ravens Tor in the Peak District now
graded F8b and thus making it the fi rst
of the grade. May 1990 on Pen Trwyn,
Moffatt climbed yet another world fi rst
when he did Liquid Ambar (F8c+). His
legendary climbing also extended to
hard solo ascents and cutting-edge new
boulder problems. Notable fi rst ascents
include Ulysses (E6) at Stanage Edge,
Master’s Wall (E7) on Cloggy, Evolution
(F8c+) at Raven Tor and Progress (F8c+)
at Kilnsey. In competition climbing he
won the fi rst ever round of the world
cup at Leeds in 1989. When retiring
from competitions in 1990 he was
ranked world No1 (ASCI) after winning
nine internationals in two years.Jerry’s autobiography, Revelations,
co-written with Niall Grimes, won
the Grand Prize at the Banff Mountain
Book Festival in 2009 and is Vertebrate
Publishing’s all-time best-selling
climbing book. Mastermind is his
second book; it is a guide to mental
training for climbers and drawing on
his own personal experiences, as well
as inspiring stories from the world’s
top climbers.JERRY MOFFATT
CLIMBER LEGENDSThere are few climbers who could be acknowledged as the best of their generation, but Jerry Moffatt
is one of them. After taking up climbing while at school in Llandudno in the 1970s he went on to
become arguably the best climber in the world during the 1980s and continued to operate at the
highest level throughout the 1990s. His routes and boulder problems, such as Liquid Ambar, Evolution,
The Ace and Dominator, are still considered prized ticks by today’s top climbers. He has climbed and
trained with many of the world’s best climbers, such as Wolfgang Gullich and Ben Moon, and is as
renowned for his mental strength as well as his physical strength and technical ability.In collaboration with
Vertebrate Publishing