2020-05-31_Wine_Spectator

(Jacob Rumans) #1
FRANCE
Côte de Beaune / Other Red

95 Chandon de Briailles Corton-Bressandes
2017 $ 199 Very perfumed and spicy, this red evokes
incense, sandalwood, rose and wild berry aromas and fla-
vors. The compact frame and dense structure reveal grip
on the finish for now, but the aftertaste extends with berry,
green olive and spice notes. Best from 2023 through
2042.—B.S.
95 Domaine Faiveley Corton Clos des Cortons
Faiveley 2017 $ 285 See Collectibles, page 93.
95 Tollot-Beaut Aloxe-Corton Les Vercots 2017
$ 105 Though delicate, with red fruit flavors of straw-
berry, cherry and currant, plus floral, vegetal and spice
notes, this is intense and focused. A firm underpinning
of acidity, tannins and stone lend austerity now, but this
should have the ability to age. Best from 2023 through


  1. 440 cases made, 40 cases imported.—B.S.
    95 Tollot-Beaut Corton-Bressandes 2017 $ 162
    Ripe strawberry, cherry, sandalwood, rose and mineral
    aromas and flavors abound in this taut, racy red. Intense,
    succulent and harmonious, leaving a firm and mouthwa-
    tering finish. Terrific length. Best from 2023 through 2045.
    440 cases made, 50 cases imported.—B.S.
    94 Chanson Père & Fils Savigny-lès-Beaune
    Dominode Domaine 2017 $ 79 Effusive floral aromas
    and flavors, along with notes of strawberry, cherry, mint
    and mineral, make this red very enticing. Elegant and in-
    tense, featuring a supple texture and a long, complex after-
    taste. Drink now through 2033. 50 cases imported.—B.S.
    94 Yvon Clerget Volnay Clos du Verseuil 2017
    $ 108 Focused fruit flavors of cherry, currant and straw-
    berry mark this succulent red. A mineral streak runs
    underneath, with accents of flowers and spice. Converges
    on the finish, where a beam of acidity and ripe fruit lin-
    gers. Best from 2022 through 2035. 275 cases made.—B.S.
    94 Yvon Clerget Volnay Les Santenots 2017 $ 90
    This red is laced with beautiful cherry fruit, pure and lively.
    Accents of mineral and spice add depth, wrapping around
    the elegant frame. Fine length and echoes of mineral and
    spice complete the experience. Best from 2022 through

  2. 300 cases made.—B.S.
    94 Domaine Clos de la Chapelle Corton-
    Bressandes 2017 $ 125 A smooth red, infused with
    cherry, spice and sandalwood notes, showing a backbone
    of well-integrated tannins as this builds to a lingering
    aftertaste. Aromatic and harmonious, with a saturated
    finish echoing spice details and picking up a mineral el-
    ement. Best from 2023 through 2045. 87 cases made, 50
    cases imported.—B.S.
    94 Louis Latour Corton Château Corton Grancey
    2017 $ 150 Opulent, silky and fluid, this offers cherry,
    raspberry, floral, mineral and spice aromas and flavors,
    well-defined by a lively structure. A slightly chewy inten-
    sity allows this to fan out on the juicy finish. Best from
    2023 through 2040. 600 cases imported.—B.S.
    93 Yvon Clerget Volnay Les Caillerets 2017 $ 113
    Rich and round, offering black cherry and plum fruit
    flavors, shaded by oak spice and a hint of chocolate. Well-
    structured, yet remains balanced, leaving a coating of dusty
    tannins on the finish. Best from 2022 through 2037. 100
    cases made.—B.S.
    93 Michel Gay & Fils Aloxe-Corton Vieilles
    Vignes 2016 $ 59 A suave, sophisticated red, this fea-
    tures plum, cherry, sandalwood and mineral flavors, backed
    by a solid structure. Plush and balanced, with a well-
    integrated feel and a lingering aftertaste. Best from 2022
    through 2035. 260 cases made, 40 cases imported.—B.S.


92 Bouchard Père & Fils Pommard Premier Cru
2017 $ 95 This is ripe and juicy, with bright acidity
defining the black cherry, plum, oak spice and fruit cake
aromas and flavors. Hints of licorice and leather flash on
the lingering aftertaste. Drink now through 2033. 175
cases imported.—B.S.
92 Bouchard Père & Fils Savigny-lès-Beaune
Les Lavières Domaine 2017 $ 65 A soft, ripe fruit
character accents this red, featuring a beam of pure cherry,
framed by earth and mineral elements. Well-structured
and long, leaving a chalky impression on the aftertaste.
Best from 2022 through 2035. 100 cases imported.—B.S.
92 Marius Delarche Aloxe-Corton 2017 $ 80
Like biting into a ripe cherry, augmented by rose and stone
notes, this red is juicy and harmonious. All the components
are in the right places. Excellent length. Best from 2022
through 2035. 400 cases made, 150 cases imported.—B.S.
92 Tollot-Beaut Aloxe-Corton 2017 $ 78 Silky
and expressive, with cherry, strawberry, floral and black
pepper aromas and flavors wrapped around a solid struc-
ture. Dense tannins catch up in the end, but overall this
is balanced and fine. Best from 2022 through 2036. 1,120
cases made, 75 cases imported.—B.S.
91 Domaine de Bellene Savigny-lès-Beaune
Vieilles Vignes 2017 $ 50 This round red evokes
plum, black cherry, spice and sandalwood flavors, with a
solid, well-integrated structure. Earth and iron accents
peek through as this winds down on the lingering finish.
Best from 2022 through 2033. 100 cases imported.—B.S.
91 Vincent & Sophie Morey Santenay Les
Gravières 2017 $ 46 Opulent and balanced, featuring
a silky texture that envelops the plum, cherry, sandalwood
and licorice flavors. Open, with accessible tannins, this
should drink well in the near term. Drink now through


  1. 140 cases imported.—B.S.
    90 Bouchard Père & Fils Savigny-lès-Beaune
    2017 $ 45 This elegant red exudes pretty cherry, straw-
    berry and spice aromas and flavors. Firms up and gathers
    a stony note. Well-balanced, with fruit, earth and stone
    accents lingering. Best from 2022 through 2033. 200 cases
    imported.—B.S.
    90 Michel Gay & Fils Chorey-lès-Beaune Vieilles
    Vignes 2016 $ 40 Succulent, exhibiting wild cherry,
    strawberry, earth and spice flavors. On the beefy side, with
    dense, dusty tannins. Drink now through 2025. 1,800 cases
    made, 300 cases imported.—B.S.
    90 Louis Jadot Pernand-Vergelesses Clos de la
    Croix de Pierre Domaine des Héritiers 2017 $ 46
    A graphite edge leads off in this cherry- and raspberry-
    flavored red. Firm and juicy, with a mineral element
    lingering on the finish. Drink now through 2024. 120
    cases imported.—B.S.
    90 Louis Latour Aloxe-Corton Les Chaillots
    2017 $ 85 A rich, supple texture sets the stage for cherry,
    currant, spice and earth flavors. The bright acidity keeps
    this moving, but this lacks the intensity of its peers. Best
    from 2021 through 2032. 300 cases imported.—B.S.
    90 Louis Latour Savigny-lès-Beaune 2017 $ 35
    Rich, with cherry, raspberry, spice and earth aromas and
    flavors. Reveals a tangy quality, in part due to the vibrant
    acidity. Shows fine balance and length. Drink now through

  2. 500 cases imported.—B.S.
    90 Vincent & Sophie Morey Santenay Les Hâtes
    2017 $ 36 This is broad and rich, boasting cherry, plum,
    licorice, toasty oak and fresh earth flavors, focused by a
    vein of lively acidity and finishing long. Drink now
    through 2025. 200 cases imported.—B.S.
    90 Tollot-Beaut Chorey-lès-Beaune 2017 $ 52
    A rich, plum- and black cherry–laced red, this is round
    and well-built. Juicy acidity keeps this fresh and focused
    on the lingering finish. Drink now through 2025. 3,800
    cases made, 525 cases imported.—B.S.


FRANCE
Côte de Nuits /
Chambolle-Musigny

95 Domaine Faiveley Chambolle-Musigny Les
Fuées 2017 $ 234 A tightly woven texture embraces
the cherry, black currant, spice and mineral flavors
embedded here. Mint hints and floral accents add depth
as this cruises to a long conclusion. Excellent acidity drives
the fresh aftertaste. Best from 2023 through 2045. 30 cases
imported.—B.S.
95 Robert Groffier Chambolle-Musigny Les
Sentiers 2017 $ 425 A focused, fruity style, with an
underpinning of mineral and racy acidity defining the
cherry, raspberry, smoke and spice flavors. Balanced and
long, echoing the spice and stone notes on the finish. Best
from 2023 through 2046. 20 cases imported.—B.S.
95 Domaine Perrot-Minot Chambolle-Musigny
La Combe d’Orveau Vieilles Vignes 2017 $ 535 A
silky, expressive version, boasting floral, cherry, raspberry,
sandalwood and spice aromas and flavors. The sapidity
extends to the lingering aftertaste. Shows fine intensity,
harmony and complexity. Best from 2022 through 2045.
105 cases made, 13 cases imported.—B.S.

95 G. Roumier Chambolle-
Musigny Les Cras 2017 $ 350
A well-defined red, with great focus
and precision to the black cherry,
black currant, violet and stony, min-
eral flavors. Ends with a chalky sen-
sation, lending gravitas to the finish
and overall impression. Best from
2023 through 2045.—B.S.

CHRISTOPHE ROUMIER
Owner & Winemaker

95 Aurélien Verdet Chambolle-Musigny Les
Feusselottes 2017 $ 225 Breadth and power mark this
red, with black cherry, violet and iron aromas and flavors
embedded in the dense texture. Fresh and intense, build-
ing to a long, iron- and spice-infused aftertaste. Everything
is in the right place for future evolution. Best from 2023
through 2043. 10 cases imported.—B.S.
94 Olivier Bernstein Chambolle-Musigny Les
Lavrottes 2017 $ 310 Pretty floral, cherry, raspberry,
cinnamon, sandalwood and mineral flavors permeate this
racy red. Concentrated yet effortless, gliding to a long fin-
ish. Shows excellent balance and energy. Best from 2023
through 2045. 260 cases made, 24 cases imported.—B.S.
94 Domaine Faiveley Chambolle-Musigny La
Combe d’Orveau 2017 $ 223 A rich, spicy red,
featuring a core of plum and cherry fruit, accented by flo-
ral, mint, vanilla and toasty oak elements. Supple, staying
fresh and balanced by the firm underlying structure. Best
from 2022 through 2043. 30 cases imported.—B.S.

94 Joseph Faiveley Cham-
bolle-Musigny Aux Beaux
Bruns 2017 $ 142 Ample cherry,
raspberry, floral and spice flavors
mark this succulent red. Tightly
wound, this offers a solid structure,
with a mix of grape and oak tannins
imparting density on the long fin-
ish. Best from 2023 through 2042.
30 cases imported.—B.S.

ERWAN & EVE
FAIVELEY
Owners

94 Joseph Faiveley Chambolle-Musigny Les
Amoureuses 2017 $ 338 Black cherry, blackberry,
sandalwood, vanilla and spice notes mark this elegant red.
Supple and backed by vivid acidity and well-integrated
tannins, leaving a chewy, fruity and lively aftertaste.
Intense and youthful. This should develop well. Best from
2023 through 2042. 20 cases imported.—B.S.

New Releases: France

100 WINE SPECTATOR • MAY 31, 2020

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