2020-05-31_Wine_Spectator

(Jacob Rumans) #1
94 Robert Groffier Chambolle-Musigny Les
Hauts-Doix 2017 $ 375 Enticing aromas of ripe cherry,
currant, sandalwood, olive and flowers set the pace for
this racy red. Complex and full of tension and energy.
Mineral, smoke and underbrush notes complete the flavor
profile. Shows terrific balance and length. Best from 2022
through 2042. 20 cases imported.—B.S.
93 Joseph Drouhin Chambolle-Musigny
Premier Cru 2017 $ 140 Packed with cherry, black
currant, violet and mineral aromas and flavors, this is
supple and elegant. A tight combination of acidity and
tannins lends the backdrop for the flavors to develop.
Shows fine balance and length. Best from 2022 through


  1. 150 cases imported.—B.S.
    93 Michel Gros Chambolle-Musigny 2016 $ 72
    Elegant, this red is focused by vibrant acidity, ushering
    the cherry, currant, smoke and spice flavors to a lingering
    aftertaste. Supportive tannins are firm and integrated, and
    the finish resonates. Long and succulent. Best from 2021
    through 2037. 300 cases made, 45 cases imported.—B.S.
    91 Joseph Drouhin Chambolle-Musigny 2017
    $ 98 A densely textured red, exhibiting black cherry,
    blackberry, violet and oak spice aromas and flavors.
    Concentrated and vibrant, with a long, dusty finish.
    Impressive, but will need time. Best from 2022 through

  2. 300 cases imported.—B.S.
    90 Louis Latour Chambolle-Musigny 2017 $ 95
    Silky and elegant, delivering black cherry, black currant,
    spice and mineral notes. Balanced and fresh, with fruit
    and mineral details echoing on the finish. Drink now
    through 2028. 150 cases imported.—B.S.


FRANCE
Côte de Nuits /
Gevrey-Chambertin

95 Maison Roche de Bellene Gevrey-
Chambertin Champeaux 2017 $ 150 A broad,
muscular style, boasting black cherry, black currant, earth,
tobacco and iron flavors. A bit brooding and somber today,
with a solid core of fruit and a long, spice-filled aftertaste.
Best from 2023 through 2042. 50 cases imported.—B.S.
94 Domaine Faiveley Gevrey-Chambertin La
Combe aux Moines 2017 $ 118 This is fresh, sport-
ing cherry, raspberry, rose, spice and mineral aromas and
flavors. Charming, offering a supple texture and a vibrant
structure, expanding on the long, saturated aftertaste. Best
from 2023 through 2042. 60 cases imported.—B.S.
93 Antonin Guyon Gevrey-Chambertin La
Justice 2017 $ 75 Lush, with black cherry, blackberry,
plum, vanilla and toast aromas and flavors. Open and
accessible, this nonetheless exhibits dense, refined tan-
nins. Offers terrific harmony and a lingering, fresh finish.
Best from 2022 through 2042. 1,500 cases made, 150 cases
imported.—B.S.
93 Louis Jadot Gevrey-Chambertin 2017 $ 70
The bright cherry core of this red is framed by smoke,
vanilla and saline mineral notes. Vibrant and balanced,
backed by dense tannins. The finish evokes dark cherry,
plum and spice elements, extended by the lively acidity.
Best from 2022 through 2042. 900 cases imported.—B.S.
93 Arnaud Mortet Gevrey-Chambertin 2017
$ 110 Supple and harmonious, this red offers a line of
cherry and plum fruit, accented by spice flavors. Focused
and balanced, lingering pleasantly on the lengthy, min-
eral-tinged aftertaste. Best from 2021 through 2035. 143
cases imported.—B.S.
92 Domaine Faiveley Gevrey-Chambertin
Vieilles Vignes 2017 $ 62 Ripe, with an earthy cast
to the black cherry, black currant and sweet spice flavors.
Rich and pliable in texture, this is harmonious, building
to a lingering, mouthwatering finish. Best from 2022
through 2036. 500 cases imported.—B.S.

92 Denis Mortet Gevrey-Chambertin Mes Cinq
Terroirs 2017 $ 110 A rich, lacy red, offering black
cherry, plum, iron and tar flavors. This turns more muscu-
lar as the tannins emerge on the long, toasty aftertaste. Best
from 2022 through 2035. 196 cases imported.—B.S.
92 Domaine de la Vougeraie Gevrey-Chambertin
2017 $ 93 Lush and smoky, featuring black cherry, plum
and earth flavors enmeshed with the grainy texture. Spice
and wild herb accents emerge as this winds down on the
dusty finish. Best from 2022 through 2035. 648 cases made,
25 cases imported.—B.S.
91 Joseph Drouhin Gevrey-Chambertin 2017
$ 74 This red is marked by a laser of cherry and currant
flavors, with grace notes of earth, iron and tobacco. The
texture is both supple and firm, with a long finish of cherry,
earth and spice accents. Best from 2021 through 2033.
600 cases imported.—B.S.

FRANCE
Côte de Nuits / Grands Crus

97 G. Roumier Bonnes Mares 2017 $ 1 , 800
Though somewhat brooding, this smoky, licorice-tinged
red features black cherry, plum, iron and spice flavors.
Solidly built and expanding on the long, spicy aftertaste.
Impeccably balanced, but needs to stretch out a little. Best
from 2023 through 2045.—B.S.
96 Domaine Faiveley Mazis-Chambertin 2017
$ 359 This beautiful red evokes violet, raspberry,
strawberry and kirsch aromas and flavors. Tightens up on
the palate, showing more oak as this winds down on the
finish. All the components are here, just needs time to
come together. Terrific length. Best from 2023 through


  1. 90 cases imported.—B.S.


New Releases: France

96 Jacques Prieur Musigny 2017 $ 1 , 193
Powerfully built, exhibiting blackberry, black cherry,
licorice, graphite and sweet spice flavors. Quickly firms
up, yet the tannins are never aggressive or overbearing.
The superb length reveals this red’s potential. Best from
2023 through 2045. 15 cases imported.—B.S.
96 Château de la Tour Clos Vougeot Vieilles
Vignes 2016 $ 500 See Collectibles, page 93.
95 Olivier Bernstein Bonnes Mares 2017 $ 960
Black cherry, black currant, rose and charred oak flavors
mark this silky red. Quickly firms up, with a lining of
mouthcoating tannins on the spicy finish. Best from 2023
through 2045. 265 cases made, 33 cases imported.—B.S.
95 Bouchard Père & Fils Echézeaux Domaine
2017 $ 275 Aromatic, boasting lilac, rose, sandalwood
and wild berry notes. Silky in texture and harmonious, with
cherry, berry, mineral and spice flavors beautifully integrated
with the firm structure. The finish is long and resonant.
Best from 2022 through 2040. 50 cases imported.—B.S.
95 Jacques Cacheux Echézeaux 2017 $ 310
Rich, dense and lively, this red delivers a beam of pure
black cherry, with accents of plum, earth, iron and toasty
oak. Well-integrated and long, yet needs time to really
sing. Offers fine balance and a lingering spicy aftertaste.
Best from 2023 through 2042. 317 cases made, 25 cases
imported.—B.S.

MAY 31, 2020 • WINE SPECTATOR 101

WS053120_buying.indd 101 3/18/20 9:57 PM

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