2020-05-31_Wine_Spectator

(Jacob Rumans) #1
95 Drouhin-Laroze Bonnes Mares 2016 $ 375
Supple and charming, featuring rose, cherry, blueberry
and spice aromas and flavors. Offers an underlying min-
eral element, with a solid structure that intermingles with
the fruit and texture. Almost approachable now, but will
be better in a few years. Best from 2022 through 2043. 32
cases imported.—B.S.
95 Pierre Gelin Chambertin-Clos de Bèze 2017
$ 300 This red shows plenty of depth, with black cherry,
blackberry, mineral and spice flavors. Dense and powerful,
yet remains balanced, playing out nicely on the toasty, raspy
finish. Needs a few years to absorb the oak. Best from 2022
through 2040. 150 cases made, 75 cases imported.—B.S.
95 Jean Grivot Echézeaux 2017 $ 500 A rich,
voluptuous red, boasting black cherry, plum, earth, spice
and mineral flavors. Fluid, showing terrific structure and
fine harmony. The finish lingers with fruit and oak spice
notes. Decant now if you must, but better to cellar for a few
years. Best from 2023 through 2042. 66 cases imported.—B.S.
95 Domaine Perrot-Minot Chapelle-Chambertin
2017 $ 645 The black cherry and mineral flavors are
wrapped in a cloak of toasty oak in this red, displaying
concentration and power. The supple texture is offset by
a firm, well-integrated structure that reveals the overall
harmony. The aftertaste lingers, echoing fruit, mineral
and spice notes. Best from 2023 through 2045. 100 cases
made, 10 cases imported.—B.S.
95 Domaine Perrot-Minot Charmes-Chambertin
Vieilles Vignes 2017 $ 645 Aromas of coffee, toasty
oak and sandalwood are alluring, complementing the vi-
brant flavors of black cherry and black currant. A mineral
element gains momentum as this red builds to a lingering
conclusion. Best from 2023 through 2043. 264 cases made,
20 cases imported.—B.S.
95 Jacques Prieur Chambertin 2017 $ 765
A bit surly now, this red is muscular, with beefy tannins
wrapping up the black cherry, blackberry, earth, iron and
tobacco flavors. Concentrated and vibrant, but needs time
to integrate more fully. Best from 2023 through 2045. 15
cases imported.—B.S.
95 Jacques Prieur Clos Vougeot 2017 $ 295
The cherry, blackberry and plum flavors are reserved in
this burly red, showing plenty of structure. Floral and oak
spice accents add depth as this remains defined on the
long finish. Be patient. Best from 2023 through 2040. 35
cases imported.—B.S.
95 Château de la Tour Clos Vougeot 2016 $ 300
An elegant red, with wild cherry, strawberry and boysen-
berry flavors that border on exotic. Solid tannins offer
support and grip, while the fruit elements linger, joined
by toasty oak, sandalwood and iron notes. Shows fine bal-
ance and length. Best from 2023 through 2043. 173 cases
imported.—B.S.
94 Olivier Bernstein Clos de Vougeot 2017
$ 640 Saturated with black cherry, blackberry, iron,
earth and subtle black pepper aromas and flavors, this red
exudes power and confidence, backed by dense yet well-
integrated tannins. The finish echoes the concentrated
fruit and vibrant profile. Best from 2023 through 2045.
400 cases made, 63 cases imported.—B.S.
94 Domaine Faiveley Clos de Vougeot 2017
$ 285 A sleek red, with well-defined cherry, floral, spice
and earth notes aligned to a firm structure. This is reserved
for now, with an expanding finish that emphasizes the oak
spice and dark fruit elements. Best from 2022 through


  1. 40 cases imported.—B.S.
    94 Domaine Faiveley Echézeaux En Orveaux
    2017 $ 285 Ripe and juicy, this deals a hand of cherry,
    kirsch, rose, mineral and spice notes. Though saturated
    with flavor and firmly structured, this delivers elegance
    and excellent length, driven by vibrant acidity. Shows
    terrific balance and complexity. Best from 2023 through

  2. 40 cases imported.—B.S.


94 Louis Latour Clos Vougeot 2017 $ 350
A broad-shouldered, fluid red, boasting black cherry, black-
berry, pomegranate and iron flavors. Muscular tannins shore
up the finish as this plays out. Balanced and long, but an-
gular today. All the pieces are in place for the long haul.
Best from 2023 through 2047. 45 cases imported.—B.S.
94 Louis Latour Echézeaux 2017 $ 399 A taut,
densely woven style, this features black cherry, blackberry,
earth and iron flavors, framed by toasty, spicy oak. Muscu-
lar but corralled by vivid acidity and mouthcoating tannins.
Best from 2024 through 2048. 35 cases imported.—B.S.
94 Louis Latour Romanée St.-Vivant Les Quatre
Journaux 2017 $ 700 Fine purity accents the cherry,
strawberry, cinnamon and toast aromas and flavors. Con-
centrated and fluid, with a supple texture and intensity
that builds to a lingering finish. Terrific length. Best from
2023 through 2038. 50 cases imported.—B.S.
94 Jacques Prieur Echézeaux 2017 $ 798 A
supple, fluid red, this offers cherry, raspberry, floral and
spice flavors matched to a bracing structure. The acidity
is more prominent than the tannins, leaving a long,
mouthwatering aftertaste. Best from 2023 through 2046.
15 cases imported.—B.S.

FRANCE
Côte de Nuits / Other Red

95 Michel Gros Vosne-Romanée Aux Brûlées
2016 $ 115 Racy and taut, displaying cherry, strawberry,
vanilla, toasty and spice flavors. Features an intense core
of ripe fruit, with well-mannered tannins and moderate
grip on the lengthy, smoke-tinged finish. Best from 2023
through 2040. 300 cases made, 40 cases imported.—B.S.
94 Bertagna Vougeot Clos de la Perrière 2017
$ 140 Supple and harmonious, this red exudes sweet,
ripe cherry, tomato, sandalwood and spice aromas and
flavors. Succulent midpalate, leading to a long, mouth-
watering finish. The length is impressive. Best from 2023
through 2040. 1,250 cases made, 60 cases imported.—B.S.
94 Domaine Perrot-Minot Vosne-Romanée Les
Beaux Monts Vieilles Vignes 2017 $ 295 Inviting
from the first sniff, this red is expressive, featuring kirsch,
raspberry, floral and spice aromas and flavors. Velvety and
plush, with a vibrant streak of acidity keeping this focused
and long. Best from 2021 through 2035. 150 cases made,
36 cases imported.—B.S.
93 Domaine Faiveley Nuits-St.-Georges Les
Pôrets St.-Georges 2017 $ 111 Intense, sporting
violet, black currant, blackberry and mineral flavors.
Dense and tightly woven, this shows a cool reserve, yet
should come together nicely. Best from 2023 through


  1. 70 cases imported.—B.S.
    93 Henri Gouges Nuits-St.-Georges 2017 $ 84
    Exotic scents of violet, raspberry and wild cherry mark
    this juicy red. Vivid and fruity, yet backed by a baseline
    of firm tannins. Shows fine balance and a lingering after-
    taste of red berries and mineral. Best from 2022 through

  2. 200 cases imported.—B.S.
    93 Michel Gros Vosne-Romanée 2016 $ 72 The
    core of black cherry and violet flavors mingles with clove,
    graphite and roasted beet accents in this expressive red.
    Firms up, with plenty of fruit to match the structure. Fine
    length. Best from 2022 through 2037. 450 cases made, 55
    cases imported.—B.S.
    91 Louis Latour Vosne-Romanée 2017 $ 100
    Pretty, offering black cherry, violet and spice flavors on a
    polished, open-knit texture. Balanced and enjoyable now,
    but there is no rush. Drink now through 2032. 300 cases
    imported.—B.S.


90 Pierre Gelin Fixin 2017 $ 57 A broad-
shouldered, chunky red, this displays black cherry, iron
and earth flavors. A bit rustic, with ample fruit and a satu-
rated, black cherry aftertaste. Drink now through 2025.
1,250 cases made, 400 cases imported.—B.S.
90 Louis Jadot Nuits-St.-Georges 2017 $ 68 A
dark, blackberry- and black cherry–laced red, with earth
and iron accents, a reserved character and a dense struc-
ture. Oak spice elements emerge on the lingering finish.
Best from 2022 through 2033. 400 cases imported.—B.S.
90 Louis Latour Marsannay 2017 $ 30 A touch
earthy on the nose initially but this blows off, revealing
ripe black cherry, plum, earth and stone flavors. Rich and
balanced, with firm tannins and a mouthwatering finish.
Drink now through 2023. 3,900 cases imported.—B.S.
90 Louis Latour Nuits-St.-Georges 2017 $ 85
A hard edge clips the cherry, strawberry and earth flavors,
accented by a graphite note. On the austere side now, this
is linear and taut, leaving a chalky, stony feel on the finish.
Best from 2022 through 2036. 350 cases imported.—B.S.

FRANCE
Loire

94 Domaine du Closel Savennières Clos du
Papillon 2018 $ 60 An extremely minerally style, with
wet stone and sel gris accents up front. Korean pear, quince
and yellow apple flavors emerge, followed by thyme and
pickled ginger details midpalate, exhibiting full intensity.
Hints of white pepper meet the mineral elements that
circle back on the mouthwatering finish. Best from 2022
through 2035. 180 cases imported.—A.Z.
93 Domaine du Closel Savennières Les
Caillardières 2018 $ 58 Offers ripe pear and apple fla-
vors, with an intriguing sea salt note in the background.
The acidity is quite high but well-integrated, giving this
focus and drive, linking the fruit, floral and mineral de-
tails into a continuous flow. Features a long, generous fin-
ish. Drink now through 2033. 100 cases imported.—A.Z.

93 Domaine de la Taille Aux
Loups Montlouis Sur Loire Clos
Michet 2018 $ 35 A seductive
white, harmoniously combining the
influence of oak with fruit and min-
erality. Singed lemon peel, quince
and dried mint accents mingle at
the core, while salty mineral details
glide along. Needs several years to
come together fully, but this already
shows a stunning side. Best from
2023 through 2035. 500 cases
made.—A.Z.

JACKY BLOT
Owner & Winemaker

92 Domaine du Closel Savennières La Jalousie
2018 $ 38 Features notes of mirabelle plum, heather
and honeysuckle, with savory mineral accents. Electric
acidity imparts energy, building a firm, minerally frame.
Picks up beeswax hints midpalate that extend on the fin-
ish. Best from 2022 through 2033. 240 cases imported.—A.Z.
92 Domaine du Closel Savennières Vendanges
2017 $ 54 A gorgeous white, featuring notes of beeswax
and orange peel that frame the core of quince, lemon oil
and persimmon flavors. Quite intense, with powerful acid-
ity plowing through, imparting focus. Paraffin hints emerge
on the finish. Needs a bit more time to integrate fully. Best
from 2023 through 2033. 30 cases imported.—A.Z.
92 Florent Cosme Vouvray La Motte 2018 $ 25
A gorgeous, beautifully integrated white, with a velvety
texture coating the palate, while notes of orchard blos-
som, dandelion, white peach and Asian pear intermix
continuously. Picks up a savory mineral detail midpalate,
meeting sweet spice accents on the long, inviting finish.
Drink now through 2033. 600 cases made, 400 cases
imported.—A.Z.

New Releases: France

102 WINE SPECTATOR • MAY 31, 2020

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