92 Saget La Perrière Sancerre Mégalithe 2016
$ 63 Vanilla notes frame the core of gooseberry, berga-
mot and lemon oil in this well-knit white. Shows a bit
more viscosity than its peers, but the acidity cuts through,
creating balance and imparting focus. Floral and mineral
layers emerge as this ends on a long savory accent. Drink
now through 2030. 1,000 cases made.—A.Z.
91 Agnes & Xavier Amirault St.-Nicolas-de-
Bourgueil Le Fondis 2016 $ 45 An interesting red,
with notes of underbrush and loamy earth, complemented
by mulberry and black currant flavors that add complexity.
Elegant and silky in feel, with vibrant acidity and tannins
that show a bit of grip. Would be better with food. Drink
now through 2028. 290 cases made, 25 cases imported.—A.Z.
91 Domaine de la Taille Aux Loups Montlouis
Sur Loire Les Hauts de Husseau 2017 $ 40 This is
coming together nicely but needs more time, with high
acidity becoming an integrated part of the wine, sup-
porting the notes of persimmon, nectarine and lemon
pith. Shows great intensity and remains quite powerful
midpalate, but softens with hints of cardamom on the
long, mineral-infused finish. Best from 2022 through- 300 cases made.—A.Z.
90 de Ladoucette Pouilly-Fumé Baron de L 2017
$ 112 A harmonious white, with green plum, lime zest
and lemon pith flavors, accented by a gooseberry note
that adds another layer. Silky in texture, fueled by a min-
erally backbone and electric acidity. Not a blockbuster
style, but shows quality, complexity and persistence. Best
from 2022 through 2029. 240 cases imported.—A.Z.
90 Saget La Perrière Sancerre 2018 $ 40 This
features a savory profile, with notes of fleur de sel and
lemongrass framing the core of lemon and nectarine
flavors. Suave, offering a soft crunch that imparts an ex-
tra textural dimension. Dried mint accents emerge on the
mouthwatering finish. Best from 2022 through 2030.
15,000 cases made, 8,800 cases imported.—A.Z.
89 Jean-Claude Chatelain Pouilly-Fumé Les
Cailloux Silex 2017 $ 25 A bit muted at first, but
flavors of lemon zest and green peach emerge slowly. Tex-
turally this is suave, with a soft crunchiness that adds to the
overall experience. Picks up a lanolin quality, along with a
chamomile note that lingers on the finish. Drink now
through 2025. 4,000 cases made, 500 cases imported.—A.Z.
89 Domaine de l’Enchantoir Saumur-Puy-
Notre-Dame Le Pied à l’Étrier 2017 $ 18 Pretty,
with violet, rose hip and blueberry flavors that flow
through, backed by medium, well-integrated tannins. To-
bacco and bay leaf notes mark the attractive finish. Drink
now through 2026. 1,200 cases made.—A.Z.
87 Domaine de la Taille Aux Loups Brut Vin de
France Tradition NV $ 25 Richly spiced, with notes
of clove and cedar framing flavors of lemon zest and
quince. Charming on the attack, showing an almost
creamy mousse. Medium length. Drink now. 3,000 cases
imported.—A.Z.
FRANCE
Rhône / Châteauneuf-du-Pape97 Domaine de la Vieille Julienne Châteauneuf-
du-Pape Réservé 2016 $ 360 Intense, featuring
warmed fig, blackberry and black currant compote flavors
that spill forth, harnessed just in time by licorice snap,
worn leather and roasted alder accents. Garrigue elements
are inlaid throughout. Shows power and depth, with cut
and drive to match. Very serious. Grenache, Syrah and
Mourvèdre. Best from 2022 through 2040. 250 cases made,
50 cases imported.—J.M.
96 Domaine de la Solitude Châteauneuf-du-
Pape Vin de la Solitude 2017 $ 100 Ripe and well-
packed, with dense, racy loganberry, red currant and plum
fruit flavors, picking up mineral, sweet tobacco and gar-
rigue accents. The long finish pulls everything togetherwith a tightly grained and polished feel. Serious juice.
Counoise, Grenache, Syrah, Mourvèdre, Clairette, Bour-
boulenc, Roussanne and Grenache Blanc. Best from 2022
through 2038. 200 cases imported.—J.M.
96 Domaine de la Vieille Julienne Châteauneuf-
du-Pape Les Hauts-lieux 2016 $ 120 Intense,
featuring a hefty core of dark currant, fig and blackberry
confiture flavors, meshed with bittersweet cocoa, smolder-
ing tobacco and warm earth notes. Tarry grip supports the
finish, while a mouthwatering garrigue streak drives through.
Grenache, Mourvèdre and Cinsault. Best from 2022
through 2040. 1,000 cases made, 300 cases imported.—J.M.
96 Domaine de la Vieille Julienne Châteauneuf-
du-Pape Les Trois Sources 2016 $ 90 See Highly
Recommended, page 93.
95 Domaine La Barroche Châteauneuf-du-Pape
Pure 2017 $ 141 Fresh, ripe and focused, with a suc-
culent beam of crushed raspberry, boysenberry and red
currant fruit racing through, lined with red licorice details
and framed by a judicious apple wood note on the finish.
Best from 2021 through 2038. 35 cases imported.—J.M.
95 Domaine de la Solitude Châteauneuf-du-
Pape Cornelia Constanza 2017 $ 105 This is squarely
on the ripe, polished, seductive side of the spectrum, fea-
turing a sleek core of cassis, raspberry and plum notes
wrapped in red licorice details. Warm fruitcake and roasted
apple wood accents fill in on the finish, with good energy
to carry it off. Approachable now for its showy fruit, but
there’s no rush. Grenache. Drink now through 2036. 150
cases imported.—J.M.
95 Domaine de la Solitude Châteauneuf-du-
Pape Secrète Réserve 2016 $ 165 Very dark and
winey, with well-steeped plum, blackberry and Black
Mission fig fruit flavors layered together, laced with licorice
snap details and carried by a singed alder hint on the fin-
ish. Shows serious heft, cut and drive. Grenache and Syrah.
Best from 2022 through 2038. 50 cases imported.—J.M.
94 Domaine La Barroche Châteauneuf-du-Pape
2017 $ 62 Warm and lush in feel, with a cascade of
cassis, plum puree and raspberry coulis flavors gliding
through, laced with red licorice accents and enlivened by
flashes of garrigue and rooibos tea on the finish. Shows lots
of range and character. Grenache, Syrah and Mourvèdre.
Best from 2022 through 2036. 500 cases imported.—J.M.
94 Domaine de Cristia Châteauneuf-du-Pape
2017 $ 49 Dark cherry, raspberry and blackberry puree
flavors are streamlined in feel, flecked with anise, mes-
quite and fruitcake hints as they drive through the focused
finish. Finely beaded acidity keeps everything in place.
Grenache, Syrah and Mourvèdre. Best from 2022 through- 1,555 cases made, 500 cases imported.—J.M.
94 Château Gigognan Châteauneuf-du-Pape
Clos du Roi 2016 $ 50 Densely fruited, with layers of
red currant, raspberry and plum fruit paste flavors that
stretch out slowly, unveiling notes of cedar, garrigue, brick
dust and incense. A warm stone detail drives the finish,
accented by well-buried acidity that keeps all the elements
fresh and defined within the old-school rubric. Grenache,
Syrah and Mourvèdre. Best from 2021 through 2036. 3,700
cases made, 800 cases imported.—J.M.
94 Domaine La Roquète Châteauneuf-du-Pape
Piedlong 2017 $ 60 Seductive, with singed mesquite
and incense notes leading the way for a ripe, silky and
refined core of raspberry coulis, steeped plum, rooibos tea
and sanguine flavors. The long, persistent finish delivers a
subtle mineral edge. Rather suave. Grenache and Mourvè-
dre. Best from 2022 through 2038. 600 cases imported.—J.M.
94 Domaine de la Solitude Châteauneuf-du-
Pape Barberini 2017 $ 75 Dark and winey, with
steeped plum, black currant and blackberry fruit, coated
with melted black licorice notes and backed by a tarry
spine on the finish. A latent tug of dark earth keeps this
grounded. Grenache, Syrah and Mourvèdre. Best from
2022 through 2038. 150 cases imported.—J.M.
94 Tardieu-Laurent Châteauneuf-du-Pape
Vieilles Vignes 2017 $ 80 Steeped red currant,
raspberry and black cherry fruit flavors are wrapped with
red licorice notes and carried by a tarry spine through an
energetic bramble- and tobacco-filled finish. Grenache,
Mourvèdre and Syrah. Best from 2021 through 2035. 600
cases made, 20 cases imported.—J.M.
94 Domaine du Vieux Télégraphe Châteauneuf-
du-Pape La Crau 2017 $ 105 Steeped red currant,
plum and raspberry fruit splays out, while light lavender,
black tea and singed juniper accents fill in. A juniper
thread laces up the finish, lending definition. Best from
2022 through 2040. 1,700 cases imported.—J.M.
93 Paul Jourdan Châteauneuf-du-Pape Réserve
des Oliviers 2017 $ 45 Youthfully compact, with a
tight beam of cassis, plum puree and blackberry coulis
flavors, this is deep and long, boding well for cellaring.
Singed alder, tobacco, anise and black tea notes hang in
the background. Grenache and Syrah. Best from 2022
through 2035. 2,500 cases made, 300 cases imported.—J.M.
93 Domaine de la Solitude Châteauneuf-du-
Pape 2017 $ 48 Warm and lush, with dark plum, black-
berry and raspberry compote flavors rolling through,
wrapped in black licorice notes and carried by a light tarry
edge on the finish. Enjoyable up front, but has the stuffing
for cellaring. Grenache, Syrah, Mourvèdre and Cinsault.
Drink now through 2035. 2,500 cases imported.—J.M.
93 Tardieu-Laurent Châteauneuf-du-Pape
Cuvée Spéciale 2017 $ 80 Dark currant, fig and
blackberry paste flavors are melded together, carried by a
graphite spine and infused with red tea, anise and sweet
tobacco notes on the finish. Solidly built. Best from 2021
through 2035. 625 cases made, 20 cases imported.—J.M.
92 Domaine de l’Arnesque Châteauneuf-du-
Pape 2017 $ 40 Dark in profile, with steeped plum,
fig and blackberry fruit, infused with smoke, pepper, beef
and juniper notes, giving way to a fleshy, silky feel on the
finish, where a shiso leaf hint peeks through. Grenache,
Syrah and Mourvèdre. Best from 2022 through 2036. 1,600
cases made, 112 cases imported.—J.M.
92 Château Mont-Redon Châteauneuf-du-Pape
2017 $ 51 Dark and winey in feel, with steeped plum
and blackberry fruit forming the core, which moves along
slowly, carried by silky but substantial tannins and backed
by warm anise, fruitcake and roasted apple wood details
through the finish. Best from 2021 through 2035. 18,333
cases made, 1,500 cases imported.—J.M.
92 Domaine du Vieux Télégraphe Châteauneuf-
du-Pape Télégramme 2017 $ 53 Fresh and pure,
with a pretty beam of raspberry and cassis notes, flecked
with savory, lavender and rooibos tea accents. A mineral
edge adds length and tension on the finish. Best from 2021
through 2032. 1,970 cases imported.—J.M.
89 Kirkland Signature Châteauneuf-du-Pape
Cuvée du Terroir des Papes 2018 $ 21 Bright, fresh
and forward, with a delicious beam of cherry and red
currant preserve flavors, infused gently with black tea and
lavender notes. Offers a lightly dusty hint on the finish.
Grenache, Syrah, Mourvèdre and Cinsault. Drink now
through 2023. 6,000 cases made, 5,230 cases imported.—J.M.FRANCE
Rhône / Cornas95 Jean-Luc Colombo Cornas La Louvée 2017
$ 110 See Collectibles, page 93.
95 Domaine Courbis Cornas La Sabarotte 2017
$ 95 Rock-solid, this strapping young Cornas offers loads
of blackberry and black currant compote flavors, mixed
with sweet tapenade, humus and tar notes, all while main-
taining a focused, lively feel throughout. Sneakily good
now, but cellar this for maximum effect. Best from 2023
through 2040. 310 cases made, 40 cases imported.—J.M.New Releases: FranceMAY 31, 2020 • WINE SPECTATOR 103WS053120_buying.indd 103 3/18/20 9:57 PM