90 Ramos-Pinto Douro White Duas Quintas
Reserva 2018 $ 30 A hint of toast lingers through the
lemon oil, peach and melon flavors of this crisp, medium-
bodied white, with notes of mineral, spice and heather
emerging on the long finish. Rabigato, Viosinho, Côdega,
Arinto and Gouveio. Drink now through 2023. 1,500
cases made, 50 cases imported.—G.S.
90 Quinta do Vale Meão Douro Meandro 2017
$ 22 This wine shows good finesse and density to the
boysenberry and ripe currant notes, detailed with savory
spice, licorice and violet accents. Red plum and mocha
hints chime in on the velvety finish. Touriga Nacional,
Touriga Franca, Tinta Roriz, Tinta Barroca and Alicante
Bouschet. Drink now through 2026. 17,500 cases made,
2,000 cases imported.—G.S.
88 Casa Santos Lima Lisboa Reserva 2015 $ 20
Notes of cola, loamy earth and black cherry show density
in this supple, full-bodied red, with details of spice and herb
matched by thick tannins on the finish. Touriga Nacional,
Syrah, Tinta Roriz and Alicante Bouschet. Drink now
through 2024. 4,500 cases made, 1,200 cases imported.—G.S.
88 Quinta do Portal Douro Colheita 2017 $ 20
Fresh red plum, raspberry and currant flavors are supported
my moderate, supple tannins in this medium- to full-
bodied red. Details of licorice, floral and baking spice con-
tinue on the finish. Touriga Nacional, Tinta Roriz and
Touriga Franca. Drink now through 2024. 6,100 cases
made, 1,500 cases imported.—G.S.
87 Ramos-Pinto Douro Duas Quintas 2017 $ 13
This red shows concentration and focus, with blackberry
and currant flavors, flanked by savory spice, graphite and
herb accents. Tannins deliver good grip along the finish.
Touriga Nacional and Touriga Franca. Drink now through- 41,500 cases made, 3,030 cases imported.—G.S.
86 Symington Family Douro Altano 2017 $ 13
A minerally, medium-bodied red, featuring fresh red plum
and boysenberry notes, detailed with herb, savory spice
and black tea details. Moderate tannins. Touriga Franca,
Tinta Roriz and Tinta Barroca. Drink now through 2023.
50,000 cases made, 3,000 cases imported.—G.S.
PORTUGAL
Other95 Blandy’s Malmsey Madeira 1981 $ 340
Alluring, with singed almond and hazelnut notes leading
off, followed by a range of sandalwood, green tea, date,
bergamot and persimmon flavors. A hint of bitterness
from the persimmon extends the finish, adding mouth-
watering cut and bringing you back for more. Drink now.
254 cases made, 25 cases imported.—J.M.
95 Ramos-Pinto Vintage Port 2017 $ 125 Pure
and racy in feel, with a stream of violet, cassis and plum
puree notes leading the way, flanked by subtle anise and
alder details. A graphite spine through the finish keeps
all the elements grounded. Rock-solid. Best from 2032
through 2045. 720 cases made.—J.M.
94 Blandy’s Sercial Madeira 1980 $ 320 375 ml
This has a sweet thread but maintains a piercing feel over-
all, with singed hazelnut, dried orange peel and green tea
notes running through. Subtle salted caramel hints linger
on the filigreed finish. Drink now. 202 cases made, 25
cases imported.—J.M.94 Niepoort Vintage Port
2017 $ 92 A fresh and racy ver-
sion, featuring loganberry, cassis
and plum fruit flavors entwined
with black licorice, sage and violet
notes. The finish unfurls slowly,
keeping latent depth in reserve.
Distinctive. Best from 2030
through 2045. 3,375 cases made,
108 cases imported.—J.M.DIRK NIEPOORT
Owner & Winemaker93 Blandy’s Malmsey Madeira 2004 $ 57 500 ml
Inviting, with flan, orange peel, salted caramel and toasted
sesame notes racing through in lockstep, inlaid with fresh,
focused acidity on the bitter almond–tinged finish, allow-
ing this to carry off its sweetness with a pleasantly airy
feel. Drink now. 216 cases made, 45 cases imported.—J.M.
93 Ramos-Pinto Vintage Port Quinta de
Ervamoira 2017 $ 110 Dark and winey, this is a bit
backward and will need time to unwind the dark currant,
fig and plum cake flavors, coated by a broad swath of bit-
tersweet cocoa and tar. A slightly burly baker’s chocolate
note at the very end adds to the grippy feel. Best from
2032 through 2042. 720 cases made.—J.M.
92 Blandy’s Verdelho Madeira 2008 $ 60 This
has a soft edge, with light cinnamon and caramel hints
draped over a core of date, hazelnut husk and green tea fla-
vors. The stylish finish lets in a subtly sweet and flattering
edge. Drink now. 250 cases made, 45 cases imported.—J.M.
91 Quinta do Crasto Late Bottled Port 2015 $ 26
This is opening up already, with a hint of dark earth
infusing the core of plum cake and blackberry preserve
flavors. A tarry echo emerges on the finish, which shows
enough underlying cut for balance. Best from 2021
through 2024. 700 cases imported.—J.M.
91 Warre Late Bottled Port Bottle Aged 2008
$ 34 This has matured nicely, settling in with a mix of
mulled black currant and plum fruit, carried by a finely
grained alder spine and backed by a warm Christmas pud-
ding note. Drink now through 2023. 7,000 cases made,
1,500 cases imported.—J.M.
90 Quinta das Carvalhas Late Bottled Port 2015
$ 20 Polished and forward in style, with plum, blueberry
and açaí reduction flavors rolling through, laced with
subtle bittersweet cocoa and tobacco notes. Drink now
through 2023. 5,000 cases made.—J.M.
90 Sogrape Dão Quinta dos Carvalhais Reserva
2016 $ 45 Ripe red plum and currant flavors have a
brooding character in this full-bodied red, with details of
anise, espresso and dried herb mixed with black tea and
mineral elements on the finish. Offers full, integrated tan-
nins. Touriga Nacional, Alfrocheiro and Tinta Roriz.
Drink now through 2025. 330 cases made.—G.S.
89 Quinta do Crasto Port Finest Reserve NV $ 17
Juicy and forthright, with plum cake and blueberry paste
flavors, laced with a streak of cocoa. A flash of bramble
gives the finish a punchy counterpoint. Drink now. 350
cases imported.—J.M.
89 Delaforce Late Bottled Port 2013 $ 20 This
sports a mix of raspberry, blackberry and plum paste
flavors, stitched with a light bramble note and backed by
a flash of anise on the finish. Slightly chewy grip through
the finish gives this a tug of rusticity, but this remains solid
overall. Drink now through 2023. 5,000 cases made, 2,000
cases imported.—J.M.
87 Quinta de Cabriz Bruto Dão 2015 $ 15
Floral details line the poached white peach, crisp apple
and orange zest notes of this frothy sparkler. Hints of herb,
spice and smoke linger on the finish. Encruzado, Bical and
Malvasia Fina. Drink now through 2023. 33,333 cases
made, 2,500 cases imported.—G.S.
86 Casa de Santar Dão 2016 $ 12 Plum and boy-
senberry fruit flavors are detailed with licorice, herb and
spice notes in this supple, medium-bodied red. Moderate
tannins frame the tangy finish. Aragonês, Touriga Nacio-
nal and Alfrocheiro. Drink now through 2022. 50,000
cases made, 3,750 cases imported.—G.S.SOUTH AFRICA
Cabernet Sauvignon & Blends92 Warwick Stellenbosch The Blue Lady 2015
$ 60 Quite ripe and full-bodied, but juicy, with substan-
tial tannins that need a little more time to become smooth
but for now provide support for ripe notes of blueberry,
kirsch, prune and dark chocolate. Ripe, yet very vibrant
and mouthwatering, this needs a few more years to har-
monize. Long and inviting. Best from 2022 through 2035.
1,000 cases made, 56 cases imported.—A.Z.
91 Warwick Stellenbosch Three Cape Ladies
2016 $ 35 An expressive red, featuring a corduroylike
texture, smooth and grippy at the same time, with firm
structure balancing the ripe flavors of black currant, mul-
berry and black tea. Shows good vibrancy throughout,
Mouthwatering finish. Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet
Franc and Merlot. Best from 2022 through 2034. 5,875
cases made.—A.Z.
90 Kanonkop Paul Sauer Simonsberg-Stellen-
bosch 2016 $ 63 This features a charming nose, with
aromas of violet and cherry blossom, while the palate of-
fers currant and rose hip notes, accented by hints of thyme
and cocoa. Vibrant and firm, showing lovely freshness and
length. Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc and Merlot.
Drink now through 2028. 3,400 cases made, 120 cases
imported.—A.Z.
90 Rust en Vrede Cabernet Sauvignon Stellen-
bosch 2017 $ 35 Pure and very elegant, with lively
acidity fueling the energy into red currant and raspberry
flavors. Iron and herb notes impart a savory edge. Shows
balance, though this should flow seamlessly across the
palate after a few more years. Best from 2022 through- 260 cases made, 125 cases imported.—A.Z.
88 Warwick Cabernet Sauvignon Western Cape
The First Lady 2017 $ 18 A graceful version, with
beautifully integrated tannins that support notes of cherry
and plum. Nutmeg and cinnamon details emerge midpal-
ate and extend on the fresh, mouthwatering finish. Drink
now. Tasted twice, with consistent notes. 45,000 cases
made, 2,500 cases imported.—A.Z.
87 Ken Forrester Cabernet Sauvignon Stellen-
bosch Petit 2018 $ 12 Elegant, with notes of under-
brush behind the core of blackberry and cassis flavors.
Appealing and balanced. Drink now. 3,000 cases made,
1,000 cases imported.—A.Z.
SOUTH AFRICA
Chenin Blanc & Blends94 Mullineux Straw Wine Swartland 2018 $ 45
375 ml Intense on the nose and palate, featuring notes
of candied ginger, orange marmalade and dried apricot at
the core, framed by vanilla and cardamom details. Smooth
and glossy, with piercing acidity providing balance and
imparting energy that lets this linger. Drink now through- 569 cases made, 50 cases imported.—A.Z.
93 Ken Forrester Dirty Little Secret Two West-
ern Cape NV $ 125 Offers a silky texture, coating the
palate and showing a bit of a crunch. The palate is almost
as stunning, with pear, mirabelle plum, ginger and heather
notes that are in perfect harmony. Sea salt accents give
this lift on the finish. Drink now through 2028. 100 cases
made, 20 cases imported.—A.Z.
93 Mullineux Chenin Blanc Swartland Granite
Old Vines 2018 $ 80 This shows good weight on the
palate, with substantial acidity cutting through, linking
elements of ginger, peach, heather and lemon curd,
accented by touches of verbena and hazelnut. Gains depth
and complexity midpalate, where different layers meet and
unravel. Finishes with a long salty detail. Best from 2022
through 2032. 534 cases made, 6 cases imported.—A.Z.
New Releases: Portugal / South AfricaMAY 31, 2020 • WINE SPECTATOR 107WS053120_buying.indd 107 3/18/20 9:57 PM