2020-05-31_Wine_Spectator

(Jacob Rumans) #1
64 WINE SPECTATOR • MAY 31, 2020

Tuna Tartine
1 pound fresh albacore
tuna, or best quality
canned or jarred tuna
in olive oil
1 teaspoon fine sea salt
Large pinch freshly
ground white pepper
1 shallot, peeled and
sliced into thin rings
2 pint canning jars
Extra-virgin olive oil
1 tablespoon Dijon
mustard
8 slices focaccia, each 1
inch wide, 4 inches
long and ¼ inch thick
¼ cup frisee
¼ cup arugula
8 Niçoise olives, pitted
and sliced
2 mini peppers, cut into
thin rings
6 cherry tomatoes,
halved or quartered
Special equipment
Pressure cooker with
15-pound weight

1. Clean tuna of bones and cut
into pieces to fit the length of
a pint jar. (If using canned or
jarred tuna, skip to Step 9 .)
2. Season tuna with salt and
white pepper. Transfer to the
refrigerator to chill for 1 hour.
3. Follow the sterilization pro-
cedures in your canning jars’
instructions.
4. Place one shallot ring on
the bottom of each jar and fill
¼ of the way with olive oil,
then pack tuna into jars.

5. Cover tuna in olive oil, leav-
ing room at the top per manu-
facturer instructions. Tap the
jars to remove any air bubbles,
then tightly screw on caps.
6. Place jars in pressure
cooker, add 1 inch of water
and seal the top, using a
15 - pound pressure weight.
Place over medium-high heat.
7. Once pressurized, let cook
for 7 minutes, then remove
from heat. Carefully remove
the weight and let steam out.
8. Once depressurized, re-
move the jars from the pres-
sure cooker and let stand at
room temperature for 15 min-
utes, then transfer to the re-
frigerator to cool overnight.
9. Preheat oven to 350 ° F.
Remove tuna from refrigerator
and bring to room tempera-
ture. Open jars and transfer
tuna to one bowl and oil to an-
other. Place mustard in a small
bowl and slowly add olive oil,
whisking to form an emulsion.
Stop adding oil when you
achieve a mayonnaiselike tex-
ture. Fold it into the tuna.
10. Place focaccia on a sheet
pan and toast in oven for 5 to
7 minutes. Remove focaccia
from oven, top with tuna and
garnish with frisée, arugula, ol-
ives, peppers, shallot rings and
cherry tomatoes. Serves 4.

Jean Pabiot & Fils Pouilly-Fumé Domaine des Fines Caillottes
2018 | 89 | $28
Classic aromas and flavors of grapefruit and gooseberry mark this vibrant
version, with bright acidity running throughout. Spice notes emerge on
the well-defined finish. Drink now through 2025. 4 , 000 cases made, 1 , 100 cases
imported.—A.Z.

ALDO You^ can^ see^ what^ heat^ does.^ It^ was^ a^ long,^ hot^ growing^ season.^ It’s^ a^ fa-
ther and son, all-biodynamic [producer].

Craggy Range Sauvignon Blanc Martinborough Te Muna 2018
| 90 | $22
Peach, pear and pineapple flavors are fresh and juicy in this white, with
accents of honeysuckle and fresh ginger that linger on the smooth and
refreshing finish. Drink now. 36 , 000 cases made, 32 , 000 cases imported.—M.W.

ALDO
Wow. Culture shock. Expressive, loud, noisy. Obviously the quality is
there. A lot going on. This is a wine that will divide a group. Some people
love it. Wines like this put Sauvignon where it is today.

Massican Sauvignon Blanc Napa Valley 2018 | 90 | $30
Lemon meringue, orange blossom and lime sherbet flavors are vivid and
expressive, set on a juicy, light frame and finishing with an aromatic note of
lemon verbena. Drink now. 1 , 072 cases made.—M.W.

ALDO
Tastes like banana. Super well-made. Focused, but there’s a richness, and
you feel the alcohol a little.

Pirate Wine: Tement Sauvignon Blanc Südsteiermark
Ried Zieregg 2015

Second Tasting


Sauvignon Blanc is a little tricky because it’s a
louder variety. Sauvignon Blanc has a lot of green
components; it’s very floral. For me, it often has passion
fruit, pineapple, gooseberry and bell pepper. It’s very
aromatically loud.”

Sauvignon Blanc


Tuna Tartine


France / New Zealand / California


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Pour One Out
Have containers
for pouring out
extra wine and
even spitting

WS053120_entertainingRev.indd 64 3/18/20 11:04 AM

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