2020-05-31_Wine_Spectator

(Jacob Rumans) #1
66 WINE SPECTATOR • MAY 31, 2020

Braised Beef
Short Ribs
1 bottle dry red wine,
preferably Cabernet
Sauvignon
8 beef short ribs, trimmed
of excess fat
Fine sea salt and freshly
ground black pepper
Flour, for dredging
2 tablespoons vegetable
oil
2 garlic cloves, sliced
½ cup sliced shallots
1 teaspoon black
peppercorns, crushed
¼ cup peeled, large-diced
carrots
¼ cup large-diced celery
¼ cup thickly sliced leek
1 tablespoon tomato
paste
4 cups chicken stock
4 Italian parsley sprigs
2 thyme sprigs
1 bay leaf
Mashed Potatoes
(recipe follows)
Ginger Red Wine Sauce
(recipe follows)
Fried Shallot Rings
(recipe follows)
Special equipment
4 wooden skewers

1. Preheat oven to 300 ° F. In
a small pot, bring wine to a
slow boil and reduce by half,
about 45 minutes. Set aside.
Season the ribs with sea salt
and pepper, dredge in flour
and shake off excess. Heat
canola oil over medium-high

Château Lynch Bages Pauillac 2009 | 96 | $150
Tight and backward, this has dense, almost chewy layers of fig, currant
and plum cake behind a very solid wall of cedar, roasted vanilla and char-
coal notes. There’s serious grip on the finish, with an iron edge that won’t quit.
Best from 2015 through 2035. 31 , 500 cases made.—J.M.

ALDO It’s^ interesting^ to^ see^ Old^ World^ technique^ and^ philosophy.^ This^ is^ a^
benchmark. The tannins grip for a long time.

Corison Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley 2013 | 88 | $90
Aromas of loamy earth, clay and road tar underscore the moderate ripe-
ness. Anise- and graphite-laced plum flavors form the core. Expands
slowly. Drink now through 2028. NA cases made.—J.L.

ALDO
They’re in that camp of big Cabs, but [vintner Cathy Corison] found a bal-
ance. It has finesse, elegance.

Tenuta San Guido Bolgheri-Sassicaia Sassicaia 2015 | 97 | $245
Rich and concentrated, this red features black currant, blackberry, violet,
mineral and spice flavors. Dense yet lively, structured yet impeccably bal-
anced, with vibrant acidity driving the long, fruit-filled aftertaste. The oak is beauti-
fully integrated. Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc. Best from 2023 through
2042. 17 , 200 cases made, 4 , 000 cases imported.—B.S.

ALDO
Leather, dark chocolate, cedar wood—quite telling. But also red currant.
Super finessed. The oak doesn’t come out. The tannins are there, but they
don’t bite.

Pirate Wine: Caves São João Cabernet Sauvignon
Vinho de Mesa Quinta do Poço do Lobo 1994

Third Tasting


Cabernet Blends


Braised Short Ribs


Bordeaux / Napa / Tuscany


in an ovenproof pan with a
tight-fitting lid. Add the ribs
and sear on all sides until
golden-brown, about 15 min-
utes. Remove from the pan.
2. Reduce heat to medium-
low; add garlic and shallot.
Cook, stirring, until softened,
2 to 3 minutes. Add carrot,
celery and leek, cooking until
softened, about 5 minutes
more. Add tomato paste and
cook until slightly darker and
drier, 2 to 3 minutes.
3. Add the reduced wine,
stock and peppercorns, and
bring to a simmer. Return
short ribs to pan and add the
parsley, thyme and bay leaf.
Cover pan and transfer to
oven. Cook until meat is falling
off the bone, about 3 hours.
Let cool in braising liquid.
4. Carefully remove bones
from meat and trim excess
fat. Lay ribs on a rimmed bak-
ing sheet lined with parch-
ment. Cover with more parch-
ment and another baking
sheet. Place a 2 - to 3 - pound
weight (canned goods work
well) on top and refrigerate
overnight. Strain braising liq-
uid, let cool and refrigerate.
5. Preheat oven to 350 ° F. Cut
meat into 1 - inch pieces and
bring to room temperature
along with braising liquid.

Decant
Don’t forget
which is which

WS053120_entertainingRev.indd 66 3/18/20 11:04 AM

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