2020-05-31_Wine_Spectator

(Jacob Rumans) #1
MAY 31, 2020 • WINE SPECTATOR 93

95


Donum Pinot Noir Carneros West Slope
Single Vineyard 2017 $ 125 CALIFORNIA Offers
full-bore richness, with enveloping flavors of dark plum,
cherry compote and raspberry tart that are creamy and
lusciously spiced, in a plush style. Chocolate mousse notes
fill in midpalate and linger into the finish, which offers a
surplus of Asian spice accents. Drink now through 2026.
145 cases made.—K.M.

94


Bucklin Ancient Field Blend Old Hill Ranch
Sonoma Valley 2016 $ 36 CALIFORNIA Loaded
with personality and appealingly exotic, this offers a struc-
tured core, wrapped in wild berry, cracked pepper, forest
floor and black licorice flavors, building richness toward
refined tannins. Zinfandel, Grenache, Alicante Bouschet,
Petite Sirah, Mourvèdre, Grand Noir, Syrah and Cari-
gnane. Drink now through 2030. 456 cases made.—T.F.

Collectibles


Wines that will improve most from additional
bottle age and that show the greatest potential to
gain in value.

96


Château de la Tour Clos Vougeot Vieilles
Vignes 2016 $ 500 FRANCE This is fragrant and
complex, exhibiting sandalwood, vanilla, violet, black
cherry and black currant aromas and flavors. Supple and
fluid, balanced by fine supporting tannins and a long,
fruit-, spice- and mineral-tinged aftertaste. Best from 2023
through 2043. 144 cases imported.—B.S.

95


Jean-Luc Colombo Cornas La Louvée 2017
$ 110 FRANCE This brims with velvety açaí berry,
blueberry and blackberry reduction flavors that spill forth
easily, guided by violet, lavender, bay leaf and singed san-
dalwood notes. The long finish reveals a tug of fresh earth,
flowing through beautifully. Best from 2022 through 2040.
420 cases made, 100 cases imported.—J.M.

95


Concha y Toro Cabernet Sauvignon
Puente Alto Gravas del Maipo 2017 $ 70
CHILE Precise and powerful, with fleshy richness to the
dark currant, cassis and black olive flavors, matched to
dried savory accents. Mocha and dark chocolate details
show on the long, richly spiced finish. Drink now through


  1. 1,500 cases made, 500 cases imported.—K.M.


95


Domaine Faiveley Corton Clos des Cortons
Faiveley 2017 $ 285 FRANCE This red starts out
generous, with a supple texture buffering vivid acidity and
firm tannins, allowing the cherry, strawberry, blood orange
and spice flavors to star. Shuts down on the finish, deliv-
ering more structure than fruit. Licorice and sandalwood
accents come into play. Best from 2023 through 2045. 300
cases imported.—B.S.

SPECTATOR SELECTIONS


Buying Guide cover photograph by Chris Leschinsky.

Highly Recommended


The issue’s most impressive wines. Includes
top-scorers and wines that represent optimal
purchases based on their combination of score,
price and availability.

97


Wine & Soul Douro Quinta da Manoella
Vinhas Velhas 2017 $ 115 PORTUGAL A beauty,
with underpinnings of graphite, forest floor and savory
spice flanking the blackberry, violet and boysenberry fla-
vors. This full-bodied red offers depth of flavor and lots
of freshness, with a powerful, integrated structure in tune
with the cedar, dark chocolate, black tea and currant ele-
ments on the finish. Needs time in the cellar to unwind.
Best from 2022 through 2032. 300 cases made, 50 cases
imported.—G.S.

96


Quinta do Vale Meão Douro 2017 $ 99
PORTUGAL A powerful yet elegant red, offering a
finely crafted array of steeped cherry, ripe raspberry and
baking spice flavors, interwoven with violet, toast and
schistlike minerality. Sinewy tannins and tangy acidity
offer a powerful and refined structure, along with herb
and smoky details on the seamless finish. Should age
nicely. Touriga Nacional, Touriga Franca, Tinta Barroca
and Tinta Roriz. Best from 2022 through 2032. 2,400 cases
made, 200 cases imported.—G.S.

96


Domaine de la Vieille Julienne
Châteauneuf-du-Pape Les Trois Sources
2016 $ 90 FRANCE A lush, ripe style, with açaí berry,
blueberry and plum reduction notes giving this a slightly
exotic bent, while singed bay leaf, worn leather and warm
tar accents keep this grounded in a slightly old-school
way. Displays ample heft, yet energy ripples through the
finish, accompanied by lingering garrigue and tobacco
echoes. Best from 2022 through 2040. 2,000 cases made,
500 cases imported.—J.M.

WS053120_buying.indd 93 3/18/20 9:56 PM

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