SÃOTOMÉ&PRÍNCIPE
146 wanderlust.co.uk March 2020
1
Santo António
The self-proclaimed ‘world’s
smallest capital’ is a warm,
smiling place. Sip a cold Rosema
beer in a shack bar or dance
in a weekend disco to kizomba
(from Angola) and kadançe
(from Angola and Cape Verde).2
North-east beaches
Praia Boi, with its squeaky-
clean golden sand, and Praia
Banana are among the planet’s
most photogenic beaches.3
Pico Papagaio
‘Parrot Mountain’ lives up
to its name: on the steep, hike
to the top of Príncipe’s iconic
680m summit you’ll hear grey
parrots and king ishers.4
Roça Sundy
Just one of the island’s
visitable historic estates, this
former plantation oers an
insight into the colonial system,
as well as a chance to understand
modern life for many islanders.5
Baía das Agulhas
A boat trip to the broad
Bay of Spires provides vistas
of volcanic pinnacles looming
from the dense rainforest that
cloaks the south of the island.6
Praia Grande
A focal point of turtle
conservation eorts; between
September and April green,
olive ridley, hawksbill and
leatherback turtles return to
their natal beach to nest.7
Água Izé
São Tomé’s largest
plantation is a bustling mini-city,
an intriguing place to wander
and meet the descendants of
serviçais (contract workers).8
Pico Cão Grande
The coastal journey south
to this 663m-high phonolitic
outcrop traverses Angolar
communities and the dense
forest of Obô NP, revealing
a cross-section of island life.8 São Tomé & Príncipe highlights
Map illustration by Scott Jessop;on Príncipe, there’s no public
transport as such – locals rely on
hitching. A recommended
local operator for tours on Sao
Tomé is Navetur (+239 222 2122;
navetur-equatour.st).Cost of travel
Theoretically, travel is very
cheap: basic guesthouses cost
from around £20pp, and simple
meals are just a few euros, plus
perhaps $35 ( £1.20) for a local
Rosema beer. However, lights are
expensive and most excursions
depend on transport organised
through hotels. Budget between
£150 and £200 daily for a good-
standard hotel, food and activities.Accommodation
On São Tomé, Omali Lodge (+239
222 2350; omalilodge.com) has
one of the island’s best restaurants.
It’s convenient for the airport. B&B
doubles from €250 (£215).
HBD (‘Here Be Dragons’) runs
Omali plus three properties on
Príncipe, developing sustainable,
low-volume tourism and employing
around 600 locals. Sundy Praia
(+239 999 5000; sundyprincipe.
com) consists of stylish tented
villas above the namesake beach,
with an excellent restaurant. Half-
board doubles from $755 (£650).
Roça Sundy (+239 999 7000;
hotelrocasundy.com) has guest
rooms in both the beautifully
restored grand colonial house and
the former stable block. The joy
here is meeting the inhabitants⊲
Planning guides
São Tomé and Príncipe
Travel Guide
Archive article
Remote isles – issue 177
Tribes and festivals – issue 139Visit http://www.wanderlust.co.uk/204More online
of what was formerly the island’s
largest plantation. The beach at
Sundy Praia is a short walk. Half-
board doubles from €220 (£190).Food & drink
Everyday cuisine is simple – grilled
or fried ish, feijoada (bean stew),
rice and fried bananas or breadfruit
is a common meal. Look out for the
more traditional dishes, particularly
calulú stew with ish or chicken, or
molho no fogo, a spicier ish stew;
these generally need to be ordered
a day in advance.
Imported Portuguese beers
(Sagres and Super Bock) are
common, but local Rosema beer,
sold in unmarked brown bottles,
is also ine. Other local favourites
include palm wine, sold in bottles
stopped with paper twists, and
cacharamba irewater.Further reading
São Tomé & Príncipe (Bradt, new
edition due February 2020)
Equador by Miguel Sousa Tavares
(Bloomsbury, 2009), novel set on
the islands during the colonial era.