2020-03-01_Wanderlust

52 wanderlust.co.uk March 2020

We

heard them before we saw them. Strange
chattering, barks and snu ing noises that
I couldn’t place as I scanned the bird-rich waters
of the lake that surrounded us. For a moment
I thought back to the stories I had been told of
spirits in Guyana’s lakes and forests. Then we saw
the bobbing heads of a family of giant river otters
looking at us, shouting half indignantly as if
questioning our presence.
Behind them, five black caiman were crossing
the lake in a flotilla. Herons and egrets flanked the
shallows and banks, while jacanas padded across
floating vegetation. The high branches of the trees
surrounding the lake were alive with yet more
birds as well as three different species of monkey:
howler, brown-bearded saki and brown
capuchin. Down below, eagle-eyed kingfishers
scanned the waters intently, before dive-bombing
for fish and I marvelled that I had never seen such
a concentration before. The wildlife was so prolific
that it was hard to know where to look next.

Land of giants
I’d only arrived at Guyana’s renowned Karanambu
Lodge in the south-west Rupununi region a few
hours earlier. It had been on my travel wishlist for
years, ever since I had seen coverage of its work in
rescuing and rehabilitating giant river otters. This
was all down to a remarkable woman, the late
Diane McTurk. Although she passed away in 2016,
her family still run the lodge and the Karanambu
Trust, working to protect the habitats here while
also ensuring local communities benefit.
Three rescued otter cubs were being raised at the
Lodge during my visit, so when we took an outing
along the Rupununi River and saw a family group
of nine in the wild, it was all the more special

• even when they were shouting at us.
  Having preserved most of its rainforest, Guyana


• known for its biodiversity – often gets called
  a ‘Land of Giants’ as it is home to many ‘giants’ of
  the natural world. One of its most celebrated
  species is the giant water lily known as Victoria
  amazonica, the leaves of which can grow to 3m in
  diameter. It flowers at sunset and we pulled up to
  a tranquil spot just as dusk fell.
  A new flower opened in front of us, its colour
  a pure white, unlike the surrounding pink lilies. At
  this stage the flower is female, and it gives out
  a strong odour which attracts beetles. As we sat in
  the boat sipping rum punch, we watched as dozens
  of beetles flew in to feed. Once pollinated the ⊲

Not like the otters

Giant river otters are just one

of the ‘giants’ in the ‘Land of

the Giants’ that can be seen

along the banks and

swimming in the waters of

the Rupununi River

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