wanderlust.co.uk March 2020 59Within 100m or so we entered a fantastical
Lost World, with wraiths of fog adding to the
atmosphere. Kaieteur National Park has its own
micro-environment with several new species to
science still being discovered here and nearby. We
walked through a mysterious forest, and into an
area covered with otherworldly giant bromeliads.
We searched down their leaves for tiny golden
rocket frogs living in the axil.
We could hear the calls of one of the country’s
most iconic birds and followed the sounds to
a patch of woodland, where a flutter of orange
caught our eye. Sure enough there was a Guianan
cock-of the rock, and then another. Eventually we
could see five males spread out around the trees,
their dazzling colours and feathery tendrils giving
them a decidedly dashing look. This was a known
cock-of-the-rock lek, and they were all showing
off, competing for a female’s attentions.
Leaving them, we took a narrow path through
rocks and scrambled up for a glorious full-on view of
the Falls. There they were in all their splendour, even
more impressive than I had ever imagined.
We stayed in a hut overnight, cooking food
that we had brought with us. A heavy fog had fallen
outside, adding to the otherwordly atmosphere.
I almost fancied I could hear a jumbie in the
distance. I woke to a light drizzle and strolled to
the top of the Falls.
Mists were swirling below. Patches would
gradually clear to reveal deep green vegetation
along the sides of the river gorge. Our guide
appeared with coffee and we sipped a civilised
brew as we stood by the Falls, dumbfounded that
there was not a soul in sight. Indeed, probably not
within many miles. And, as had struck me many
times throughout the trip, it felt as if we had the
whole of this extraordinary land to ourselves. ⊲