Something was up at Valentino.
Within seconds of the spring/
summer 2020 show opening, it
was clear to the assembled
fashion press that Pierpaolo Piccioli,
famously a wizard with colour, was
feeling, well, off colour. Specifically: he
was feeling white. Twelve pristine,
ultra-feminine variations on a white
cotton shirt opened the show – a palate-
cleansing gesture from Piccioli, who said
he wanted to infuse the white shirt
with “a couture sensibility” – and just
like that, pale was interesting again.
Elsewhere, the consensus was clear:
white for spring isn’t diaphanous or
virginal. It has poise. At Loewe, it’s
executed with charm, with the finest
lace and embroidery. At Proenza
Schouler, it comes in clever swathes over
the body to create a sexy, cut-out-riddled
silhouette. And at Helmut Lang, it
had a ’90s girl’s impulse for restraint.
Wear it head-to-toe, with throwback
thong-toe sandals. And steer clear of
children and animals. Ellie PithersFrom left: Isabel wears layered
top, £385, MM6 Maison Margiela.
Trousers, £365, Tibi. Sandals,
£99, Kurt Geiger London. Bag,
£1,025, MCM. Karly wears
dress, to order, Proenza Schouler.
Tights, £18, Falke. Shoes, £675,
Balenciaga. Earrings, from £230,
Nathalie Schreckenberg Jewelry.
Malaika wears hoodie, £55, Nike.
Top, from £280. Shorts, from
£195. Boots, from a selection.
All Alexander Wang. Earrings,
£75, Rachel Jackson London.
Ring, £180, Ambush. Agi wears
shirt, £240, Self-Portrait. Dress,
£675, Fabiana Filippi. Tights, £15,
Falke. Top, tied at waist, £55.
Trainers, £150. Both Nike. Fuyao
wears dress, £800, Helmut Lang.
Sandals, £525, Jimmy ChooBENJAMINVNUK03-20-FOB-Trends-White_1865242.indd 152 07/01/2020 14:59