2020-02-10 Bloomberg Businessweek

On

the

red

carpet

at

the

Golden

Globes

in

January,

it

was

impossible

to

ignore

Aquaman

star

Jason

Momoa.

The

6-foot-4-

inch titan

was

wearing

a

plush

green

blazer

by

Tom

Ford

over

a

tank

top,

of

all

things,

which

he

revealed

with

gusto

later

in

the

eve

• 
  

ning

as

he

draped

his

jacket

around

wife

Lisa

Bonet’s

shoulders.

But

the

most

eye-

catching

item on

his

outfit

was

the

cluster

of

diamonds,

onyx,

and

emeralds

on

his

left

lapel—a

dazzling

art

deco

brooch

by

Cartier,

one

of

many

pieces

of

jacket

jewelry

storming

Hollywood

of

late.

The

old-timey

brooch

is

back,

and

this

time

around,

it’s

not

only

dowager

count

• 
  

esses

embracing

the

trend.

“Men

are

add

• 
  

ing lapel

pins

as

the

finishing

accessory

to

their evening

attire,”

says

Elizabeth

Doyle

of

the

New

York

vintage

jewelry

store

Doyle

&

Doyle.

“Recently

we

have

seen

a

resur

• 
  

gence

in

the

popularity

of

brooches

for

men

in

more

whimsical

styles.”

Call

them

bro-oches.

Lapel

pins

have

a

long

tradition,

worn

for

centuries

to

confer

status

or

membership

in

a

group.

Fiona

Druckenmiller,

the

owner

of

Manhattan’s

FD

Gallery,

which

specializes

in

one-of-a-kind

20th

century

pieces,

explains

that

historically

“many

important

men

used

jewelry,

and

specifically

brooches,

to

share

with

others

their

personal

narratives:

their

wealth,

their station

in

society,

their

military

rank.”

The

late

designer

Karl

Lagerfeld

pioneered

the

renaissance

of

the

brooch,

wearing

them

on

his

famous

black

ties.

But

it

was

Pharrell

Williams

who

gave

brooches

contemporary

credibility

when

he

wore

a

diamond

camellia

at

the

2017

Academy

Awards.

Jeff

Goldblum

donned

a

dramatic

star

brooch

for

the

recent

launch

of

Tiffany

&

Co.’s

men’s

jewelry

collection,

and

the

brand

included

several

in

its

2019

Blue

Book

of

high

jew

• 
  

elry.

And

recently

brooches

have

appeared

on

tastemak

• 
  

ing

actors

and

musicians

such

as

Chadwick

Boseman,

Common,

Jared

Leto,

Alexander

Skarsgard,

and

country

music

duo

Dan

+

Shay.

“Brooches

are

not

just

for

black

tie,”

Doyle

says.

“They

can

work

equally

well

for

a

casual

look

and

are

great

on

a

denim

jacket,

either

alone

or

worn

in

a

cluster.”

Styled

as

such,

or

in

a

hatband,

they’re

a

great

way

to

infuse

personal

• 
  

ity

into

a

simple

wardrobe

staple.

“I

am

being

asked

more

frequently

to

design

brooches

for

male

clients,”

says

jewelry

designer

Shaun

Leane.

“They

add

a

layer

to

their

personas

and

make

for

great

conversation

pieces.”

His

personal

favorite

is

a

22-

karat

gold

beetle

brooch,

which

he

says

adds

character

to

his

suits.

“It’s

exciting

to

see

men

becoming

more

experimental

in

the

jewelry

they

wear,”

he

says.

“It

comes

after

a

long

period

of

them

being

afraid

to

express

their

personality through

jewelry.” <BW>

CHOPARD

Flower

brooch

with

white

diamonds,

yellow

diamond

briolettes,

and

black

diamonds,

set

in

18k

white

gold

and

titanium.

Price

upon request; chopard.com

DOLCE & GABBANA

Feather brooch in Swarovski

crystal.

$1,295; Dolce &

Gabbana boutiques

VAN CLEEF &

ARPELS

Petales de Chance clip with emeralds, tsavorite garnets, and diamonds, set in 18k white gold and platinum.

$408,000;

vancleefarpels.com

FRED LEIGHTONAntique ruby and diamond horseshoe

brooch.

Price

upon request;

fredleighton.com

FRED LEIGHTONRose cut diamond crescent brooch, circa 1865.

Price

upon request;

fredleighton.com