readersdigest.co.in 103
immersed in a fathomless sleep.
In Palermo they love nothing more
than a stricken Jesus, and a cherub,
thighs rippling with so much fat you
can scarcely believe that mere cement
keeps the creature stuck on.
Even the food here tastes extra vis-
ceral. The spleen sandwiches. The
caponata made with aubergine the
colour of deep bruises, simmered
until its skin eases away like a stock-
ing in your mouth, leaving just the
tanned flesh that feels slightly like
cannibalism. Wild mulberries in the
Ballarò market. Still-bleeding tuna,
squashed, dripping figs and honey as
rust-dark as henna.
Once, on a flight to the city during a
blustery February, the woman across
from me recited the rosary from
Top: Mondello
Beach lures
people out
of the city
during the
hot summer
months.
Right: This
building in
the Plaza
Garraffello
is just one
example of
the dereliction
that runs
rampant in
Palermo.
ph
ot
os
:^ ©
sh
ut
te
rs
to
ck