Seligman    –   Truxton BLM -   84km
The sun came    out and the breeze  subsided,   allowing    us  to  be  on  our
way.    Route   66  ran in  a   westerly    direction   past    Grand   Canyon  Caverns,
a    fascinating     settlement  (think  cowboys,    hats,   boots   and     guns)   to
Truxton.    The road    ran through the Hualapai    Indian  Reservation and
past    the tribal  capital of  Peach   Springs.    At  around  midday, the wind
picked   up,     and     it  took    grinding    into    a   frigid  breeze  to  reach   our
destination.
The good    thing   about   that    part    of  the world   was that    they    have    what
is   known   as  BLM-land,   where   one     can     camp    free.   We  located     the
gate,   a   place   the store   owner   in  Truxton told    us  about   and turned  in.
All one needed  to  do  was fill    in  the register    and take    a   permit. Upon
leaving,     you     remove  your    garbage     and     close   the     gate.   How     cool    is
that?    After   sunset,     it  again   became  downright   freezing,   and     we
hurriedly    lit     a   fire.   Like    cowboys,    we  sat     by  the     fire,   eating  tinned
beans,  corned  hash    beef    and tortilla    chips.
As   soon    as  the     fire    died,   I   dived   into    the     tent.   I   wore    practically
everything   I   possessed,  but     I   needed  more.   In  the     morning,    I
discovered  my  water   bottle  (in the tent,   next    to  me) frozen  solid   and
realised    it  wasn’t  my  imagination that    the weather was freezing.