16 FOOD AND DRINK
A CONSISTENT THEME of this
column is that good coffee is not
easily made. While specialty coffee
culture and language (artisanal, third
wave etc) has spread quickly in the
last 15 years or so, only a select
number of cafés really have the art to
produce high quality espresso on a
consistent basis. In the last few years,
many places have found it difficult to
recruit and hold onto capable baristas.
During the Covid lockdown of 2020
and 2021, many moved into other
jobs and have not returned. There is,
in the city, a considerable shortage.
Good baristas focus on the job in
hand. A barista I saw in a chain
recently, tried to combine checking
his phone, chatting to colleagues
about his weekend and making
espresso. This lack of focus and
seriousness (as well as technical
know-how) is why the coffee served
by most of the chains is so
inconsistent - and generally
mediocre. With the beans and
machines they have, they should be
able to produce much better.
Detour Espresso in Marchmont is
certainly a place with a serious
attitude to coffee. On a recent visit,
the two baristas were discussing the
fact that the espresso wasn’t flowing
with the smoothness they desired; it
wasn’t quite ‘dialled in’. So, they took
time to make the necessary
adjustments rather than just
continuing to serve something below
their usual standards. When
customers are paying well over three
quid for their coffee, they deserve
something well made that makes the
best use of the beans. While serious
about the coffee, the atmosphere at
Detour is not austere and overly cool.
In fact the place has a very chilled
vibe, with lots of warm, friendly
interaction between the customers
and the baristas. In many ways
Detour is representative of the way
that cafés have, in recent years, taken
over some of the social roles
previously associated with pubs.
Increasingly they are becoming
social spaces.
On my last visit, there was lots of
chat involving Detour’s boss Matt
Rees about the music choices. When
I entered, they were playing some
early Tom Waits which helped create
a chilled, jazzy vibe. Later the music
became distinctly more up-tempo.
The music isn’t just in the
background but is a talking point,
helping to create the right
atmosphere. In the corner of the
café, an engaging science lesson for
kids was taking place. It all added to
a friendly, community feel with a
range of people of different
generations.
Detour serves coffee by Machina,one of Edinburgh’s leading coffee
suppliers - who roast their coffee at
Peffermill. Machina, launched in
2013, is one of the most renowned
names in specialty coffee in
Edinburgh. They now have their own
large, stylish café in Marchmont.
Along with Argyle Place a few yards
away, Detour faces plenty of local
competition. However, the number
of students and young professionals
in the area means there is space in
the market.
There’s a nicely curated selection
of books on sale (they also host a
New Writers Group), again adding to
the sense that the place isn’t merely a
place to drink coffee, but also a place
to study, work, discuss music or lose
yourself in a good book. The work of
artists and photographers hang on
the walls - nice exposure for local
creatives. The high, corniced ceiling
gives the place a airy feel, while
simple furniture helps it feel
uncluttered even when busy.
Food wise, Detour offers
toasties, quesadillas, soups,
smoothie bowls and a selection of
baking. They also sell Machina’s
beans - and also those and the
excellent James Gourmet Coffee,
based in Ross-on-Wye.Detour Espresso, Argyle Place,
EH9 1JTExcellent spot with chilled friendly vibes and quality espresso
44 1 44 2 44 3 44 4 44 5 44 44 4444 7 4444 44 44 44 44 844 10 44 4444 44 44 44 44 44 44 4444 12 1344 44 44 44 44 44 44 4416 44 1744 44 44 18 44 44 44 44 44 4444 20 21 2244 44 44 44 44 44 44 4444 23 44 2444 44 44 44 44 4444 26 4444 44 44 44 44 44 44 4444644154444444494411441444194444254444CAFÉ SCENE: DETOUR ESPRESSO By Charlie Ellis
On board with Outboard
OUTBOARD run by Scotts next
door to its bar and restaurant at
Port Edgar, has opened for the
summer season. The restaurant
is dog-friendly and enjoys views
of all three bridges as well as the
marina.
Its extensive menu will feature
everything from breakfast rolls
to an all day menu featuring
bubble fish & chips, chicken
tempura, a hearty selection ofburger buns, salad bowls, as well
as toasties and homemade
traybakes.
Reece Wood, Operations
Manager said: “We’re excited to
kick off another fantastic season
at Outboard. Our team has been
hard at work preparing for the
reopening, and we can’t wait to
welcome back familiar faces and
introduce newcomers to our
unique dining experience.”ACROSS
6 STAGSREMARK (anagram)
(11)
8 Woollen thread (4)
9 Flightless New Zealand bird
(4)
10 Improve (7)
11 Tiny aquatic life (8)
12 Titillate (6)
14 Wither (7)
17 Green leaf vegetable (7)
19 Light wind (6)
20 Opinion, stance (8)
23 Ape, monkey, eg (7)
24 Measure of land (4)
25 Ancient Roman garment (4)
26 Legacy (11)6 ACROSS is a place in Edinburgh.DOWN
1 Across the whole country
(10)
2 Approval (6)
3 Laundering (7)
4 Superficial (4-4)
5 Eye inflammation (4)
6 Interrogate (5)
7 Haphazard, unpredictable
(7)
13 Restriction (10)
15 Fishing spear (7)
16 Vision (8)
18 Horseback soldiers (7)
21 Peace agreement (6)
22 Funereal tune (5)
23 Couple (4)Detour in Marchmont
CROSSWORD By Aldhelm
SOLUTION6 Grassmarket, 8 Yarn, 9 Kiwi, 10 Enhance, 11 Plankton, 12 Excite, 14 Shrivel, 17 Across:Spinach, 19 Breeze, 20 Attitude, 23 Primate, 24 Acre, 25 Toga, 26 Inheritance.1 Nationwide, 2 Assent, 3 Washing, 4 Skin-deep, 5 Stye, 6 Grill, 7 Erratic, 13 Constraint, Down:15 Harpoon, 16 Eyesight, 18 Cavalry, 21 Treaty, 22 Dirge, 23 Pair.