Australian_Traveller-May.June.July_2019

(Jacob Rumans) #1

The 100 | Culture fix


asthethelargestevershowcaseoflivingAustralianartists;
collectivelytheyrepresentedallstatesandterritories.Their
workwaspresenteddynamicallyatvenuesacrossthecity:
Ballarat’sspoilofheritagebuildings–suchastheGeorgeFarmer
building,anoldbaconcuringfactory–actasinteresting,ifnot
entirelyblank,canvasesforart.
Itwasaproject 10 yearsinthemakingforBOAA’sfounderand
artisticdirectorJulieCollins,whoestablisheditwithaviewto
reflectingthediversityofwhat’shappeningaroundAustralia.Having
livedinBallaratforover 13 years,sheishappytoseethecitydiversify
tooandsensestheculturalchange:basedsolelyonsitevisitsaheadof
thebiennale,twoartistsuppedsticksandmovedtoBallaratandtwo
boughtinvestmentproperties,shetellsme.“SoIsuspectthere’sgoing
tobeabigpush.BecauseBallarat’stheperfecttown–it’sanhour
fromMelbourne,studiosandhousesarecheap,andpeoplearejust
having an extraordinary ‘reaction’ – I call it the Ballarat renaissance.”
That ambitious, anything-is-possible spirit again is infectious for
both residents and visitors alike. As Poole tells me over a cheeseboard
(local, of course) and wine (ditto) at Lost Ones, “If I can set up a
gallery and run a bar – me, a communications specialist with an
economics and law degree, any mug can do it. You don’t have to be
special. Just dream it. That’s the great thing about this place, you
can just do it.”

“Ballarat has always had a very


strong creative undercurrent. We’re


so lucky that more and more people


are now tuning into the frequency.”


DETAILS


Getting there
Ballarat is a 90-minute drive or
train journey from Melbourne.

Staying there
For a boutique hotel stay, check
into the recently opened
PROVINCIAL HOTEL, based in a
gorgeously restored heritage
building in the heart of town,
with a lovely restaurant called
LOLA to boot. Accommodation
at the stylish LASCELLES is split
between two grand Victorian
terraces. LAKE WENDOUREE
LUXURY APARTMENTS are slick and
comfortable digs on the edge of
Ballarat’s picturesque lake.

Eating there
Don’t miss FIKA COFFEE BREWERS,
YELLOW ESPRESSO and the
delightful CAFÉ SIDRA (in
Learmouth, a worthwhile
20-minute drive out of town) for
brunch and lunch, and check out
UNDERBAR (book well ahead),
THE PUB WITH TWO NAMES and
FORGE PIZZERIA for dinner.

PHOTOGRAPHY: TONY EVANS (THE PUB WITH TWO NAMES)

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