However, unlike later periods where dress and crown separate the gods from mortals,
in the Early Dynastic period, deities had similar attire to that seen on mortals, the
vegetation goddess already mentioned is wearing a similar plain garment beneath a cloak
draped over her shoulder like the priestesses on the limestone plaque (Aruz 2003 : 74 , cat.
no. 33 ). Deities also wore the flounced garments worn by worshippers–the Suliemah seal
is one example. The best representation of a male deity is on the Stela of Vultures, where
the god Ningirsu is wearing a plain skirt with two thick folds in the centre (Winter
op. cit.).
THE AKKADIAN PERIOD
Politically and linguistically, the Akkadian Dynasty is not Sumerian, but their influence
on dress was so profound that their dress became the classical and predominant style
in the following periods. In the first stages of their rule, Akkadian kings continued
dressing in Sumerian dress and then gradually developed their own style, which
consequently became the prevailing style of dress for the rulers of Ur III and later the
Babylonians. Like the earlier period, our knowledge of Akkadian dress comes mostly
from royal monuments and cylinder seals.
On a diorite stele, King Sargon is dressed in a Sumerian military uniform similar
to that of King Eannatum on the Stele of the Vultures: a fleeced garment covering the
right shoulder. He is bearded and his hair is gathered in a royal chignon, a continuation
of the tradition from the Early Dynastic period (Aruz 2003 : 192 , fig. 54 ).
This military uniform must have been much prized because Naram-Sin of Agade
is wearing similar attire on a victory stele, although the carving of the fleece here is
more refined due to either a different type of garment or the change in carving tech-
nique. However, on his famous victory stele (Aruz 2003 : 196 , fig. 59 ), Naram-Sin is
wearing the new type of dress–a short kilt with a sash/shawl covering one shoulder and
falling down to his knees (see Figure 10. 9 this volume). This form of dress was devel-
oped and later adopted by the Babylonians. The wrapped kilt is seen best on the Old
Babylonian ‘figure with mace’, a popular motif on many cylinder seals (Collon 1987 :
fig. 1 , 166 – 167 ).
The warriors on the Naram-Sin stele (Figure 10. 9 ) are also wearing a type of short kilt
with a shawl draped down the front. A better example of the short skirt/kilt with a draped
shawl is the soldier in the central register of the fragment of a stela attributed to King
Rimush. However, the sash/shawl may have been introduced earlier as a suggested by
fragments from another stela where the warriors also have the shawl draped down over a
fringed skirt, a remnant style from the Early Dynastic period (Aruz 2003 : 192 , fig. 54 ).
The lower part of a diorite statue of King Manishtushu shows a new style of civilian
dress which is a long garment wrapped around the body with a fringe on one side. The
fringe is very well executed with particular emphasis on the details. Although, the
polished surface is very smooth, the slightly raised folds indicate the soft cloth of the
garment. The fringe is made of a repetitive pattern, well executed with knobs and
tassels (Aruz 2003 : 193 , fig. 56 ).
At the beginning of the Akkadian period, the kings’ headdress, like their attire, was
still following the style of the Early Dynastic period: Sargon on his stele is bearded and
the hair is tied into a chignon, reminiscent of Eannatum on the Stela of the Vultures
(Figure 11. 2 ). The soldiers behind him are beardless and bare headed. On another stela,
–– Lamia al Gailani Werr ––