The Science of Spice

(Jacob Rumans) #1

98 Spice Profiles


Mahleb cherry stones have been
found at Mediterranean and Middle
Eastern prehistoric sites, but written
evidence of their use in ancient times
is scarce. The earliest perfume recipes
listing kernels for their aromatic
qualities date back only to the 12th
century ce. There is some evidence,
though, that mahleb may have been
cultivated as early as the Sumerian
era (4500–1900 bce) in ancient
Mesopotamia, around modern-day
Iraq and Syria. In the native regions
of the mahleb cherry tree, use of the
dried, ground kernels as a culinary
spice dates back centuries, popular
in rich breads and cakes enjoyed at
religious holidays. Mahleb is not
commonly used outside Greece,
Turkey, North Africa, and the Middle
East, although Greek Americans
often add it to their European-style
yeast cakes and pastries.

Region of cultivation
Mahleb is native to the Mediterranean region,
parts of Central Asia, and Iran. It is mainly
cultivated in the Anatolia region of Turkey,
and in Syria and Iran.

The plant
Mahleb cherry is a
deciduous tree or large
shrub that belongs to
the rose family.

Whole
Whole kernels
retain their
flavoursome oils
better than ground,
but should be frozen
for prolonged storage.

Powder
Less bitter and flavoursome than whole
kernels, the powder turns rancid fairly
quickly due to its high oil content.

BOTANICAL NAME


Prunus mahaleb

ALSO KNOWN AS


Mahlab, mehlepi, rock cherry,
St Lucie cherry.

MAJOR FLAVOUR COMPOUND


Coumarin.

PARTS USED


The kernel (seed) within
the stone of the fruit.

METHOD OF CULTIVATION


The ripe cherries are harvested in the
autumn, when they have turned dark
purplish-black.

COMMERCIAL PREPARATION


The small, soft kernel is extracted by
cracking open the stone inside the
thin-fleshed cherry fruit. The seed is then
blanched, dried, and ground or sold whole.

NON-CULINARY USES


Essential oil is used in perfumery.

TURKEY


SYRIA


GREECE


IRAN


TURKMENISTAN


AFGHANISTAN


MAHLEB


Bittersweet | Fruity | Woody


Spice story


Cherries are
very tart and
considered
inedible

Oval kernels
are soft and
about the size
of peppercorns

White flowers are
highly fragrant

Ground
mahleb
should be
pale cream
in colour

098-099_Mahleb.indd 98 04/06/2018 15:47

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