The Science of Spice

(Jacob Rumans) #1

147


LEMONGRASS


Le


Flavour Group | CITRUS TERPENES | Lemongrass


Kitchen


creativity


Delicate lemongrass enlivens curries, stir-fries, pickles, salads, and soups. Use the
tender inner stalk in curry pastes, marinades, and spice rubs, or bruise the whole
fibrous stalk and use in stocks or soups, removing it before serving.

BLENDING SCIENCE


Lemon-scented citral makes up 70 per cent of the spice’s flavour compounds, but the key to spice pairing
is to avoid intensifying this dominant citrus with another lemony spice. Instead, bring out lemongrass’s mild
pepperiness from myrcene, and/or its sweet and floral elements from linalool and geraniol.

Fishcakes Make Thai fishcakes by adding
lemongrass, chilli, ginger, garlic, and lime leaves to
fish and potato before frying.

Pork Marinade pork in a paste of finely chopped
lemongrass, ginger, coconut, and turmeric before
grilling or barbecuing.

Granita Infuse a sugar syrup with lemongrass
and lime zest. Strain to make granitas or ice lollies.

Salad Add finely chopped lemongrass to
a dressing for a Thai noodle salad with slivers
wof carrot, chilli, cucumber, and a handful of
toasted nuts and herbs.

Fruit Instead of adding pared lemon peel to
the poaching liquid for pears, rhubarb, quince, or
peaches, add a bruised stick of lemongrass for
a hint of pepperines.

CITRAL


citrus | herbal |
zesty

team with spices where
citrus is a minor part of
the flavour profile:
coriander contains
similarly lemony limonene
and powerfully magnifies
floral notes

ginger contains citral and
brings in hot pungency

MYRCENE


spicy | peppery |
turpentine

boost the peppery notes
with spicy myrcenes:
black pepper also
brings slow-burning heat,
and harmonizing floral and
citrus notes from flowery
linalool and citrus limonene

allspice is also sweetly
fragrant, making it ideal for
sweeter dishes

LINALOOL,


GERANIOL


floral | woody |
sweet

harmonize penetrating
spices through shared
floral compounds:
cardamom shares
linalool, with complementary
eucalyptus and lemon

Sichuan pepper shares
geraniol, linalool, and myrcene
under its cineole pungency
grains of Selim carries
both compounds, plus
eucalyptus and bitterness

BLEND TO TRY


Try this recipe for a classic
blend featuring lemongrass,
or why not adapt it with
some blending science?
Khao kua p49

Slice, grate, or pound for quicker cooking:
the greater the damage, the faster the oils
will leak out. Add powder late in cooking.

RELEASE THE FLAVOUR


Most of lemongrass’s flavour comes from
oil glands deep inside the grass. The stems
must be crushed to burst open the
glands and release the oils.

Gently bruise or bend leaf blades for
lengthy cooking, to prevent too many of
the flavour compounds evaporating.

Cook with fats, such as coconut milk, to
ensure oil-based citrus and floral flavour
compounds spread throughout the dish.

FOOD PARTNERS


146-147_Lemongrass.indd 147 04/06/2018 15:48

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